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 ADVANCED
The Great Black North
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Bete Noir 
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Borg, The 
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Cold Feet 
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Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Locutus 
Magus, The 
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Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Triage 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Torch & Twang 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
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T&T climbs the central crack system, over the roof...

Description 

Within the context of limestone sport climbing, most will view this as a route to avoid. However, from a different perspective the line warrants a second look. If this pitch were on a desert tower, where sketchy detached blocks are part of the experience, the route would be a highly regarded classic. Unique, athletic movement in a wild position, puts this route among Shelf's most memorable. Unfortunately the spooky rock might leave a memory you'd rather forget.

Stick clip the first bolt, choose your path wisely, and tiptoe up the exfoliating slab. Good pockets and a bomber fingerlock pull over the first bulge onto an excellent panel of clean stone. Continue up sinker pockets to the looming roof. Make sure your belayer is clear of the rock fall zone, then lieback, handjam, and stem over the lip to a well deserved rest. An obvious 2-finger pocket and hard to reach edges breach the intimidating final panel.


Location 

Just left of the "Refrigerator", Climbing the opposite side of the Triage "Slice of Bread".


Protection 

Stick clip mandatory. 7 bolts to 2 BA.



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