Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
There are two options for the lower half of this route, both around 5.8. The cracks to the left are a little more awkward than the dihedral stemming over to the right. If you take the latter option, be sure to put a long sling on your last piece to minimize rope drag. Either way, now you're on a comfy ledge looking up at the intimidating, slightly overhanging face above. Thin hands and technical feet will make you earn your way to the anchors.
Bring some nuts and something like a #1 Camalot for the lower half; three draws for the upper half. 2 bolt lowering anchor.
Per Mark Roth: Left option has 6 bolts total, no gear needed.
I got on this yesterday, climbed to the big ledge, and looked up at the face. It looked real desperate, so I went a few feet left and climbed two bulges on good ledges which got me about halfway up the face. A few feet below the second to last bolt, I traversed right and climbed up the face for a few moves on good edges. Climbing the route this way seems 11a (maybe lighter). The route description implies you climb straight up the face from the ledge. but that looks to be a good bit harder than 11b/c. Anyone know details on this?
By Kevin Gillest From: Arvada, CO Feb 8, 2013 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic.
If it's any consolation, the bolt hangers are probably spinning more easily because the new hangers are thinner than the original cold shuts. I think I added washers when I upgraded the hangers a few years back, but the hangers could spin more easily in that configuration. The Rawl 5-piece bolts are designed in a way that the hanger or equipment attached can vibrate or move without compromising the bolt itself. If the bolts themselves actually appeared to move, then that's a different story.