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There are two options for the lower half of this route, both around 5.8. The cracks to the left are a little more awkward than the dihedral stemming over to the right. If you take the latter option, be sure to put a long sling on your last piece to minimize rope drag. Either way, now you're on a comfy ledge looking up at the intimidating, slightly overhanging face above. Thin hands and technical feet will make you earn your way to the anchors.
Bring some nuts and something like a #1 Camalot for the lower half; three draws for the upper half. 2 bolt lowering anchor.
Per Mark Roth: Left option has 6 bolts total, no gear needed.
On the bolted start.
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
Jul 18, 2008
FA - December 7, 1991 (of course). This route was retrofitted in December 2007 to swap out the cold shuts and add 2 lower bolts. The route can be done without trad gear now.
|By Mark Roth|
Feb 1, 2010
Left option has 6 bolts total, no gear needed. Clipping hold for the last bolt is really creaky. Try not to break it....
|By DJ RYNO|
From: chatfield lake ,co
Mar 14, 2010
Said hold is still really creaky. I pulled pretty hard on it.
Jan 20, 2013
I got on this yesterday, climbed to the big ledge, and looked up at the face. It looked real desperate, so I went a few feet left and climbed two bulges on good ledges which got me about halfway up the face. A few feet below the second to last bolt, I traversed right and climbed up the face for a few moves on good edges.
Climbing the route this way seems 11a (maybe lighter).
The route description implies you climb straight up the face from the ledge. but that looks to be a good bit harder than 11b/c.
Anyone know details on this?
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic.