By David Sahalie From on the road again Jan 20, 2012
| This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project. |  FLAG |
By s.price From PS,CO Jan 20, 2012
| Throw a rope on it and it is no longer a highball. Now it's just a short toprope. |  FLAG |
By Mike From Phoenix Jan 20, 2012
| David Sahalie wrote: only to clean and tick or is it legit to rehearse moves too? If you want to do it then do it. Who cares if others view it as 'legit' or not? Climb however you want, just be honest about it. |  FLAG |
By Crag Dweller From Denver, CO Jan 20, 2012
| wtf, who cares?! do what you need to do to keep from injuring yourself. it's just climbing, er, bouldering. |  FLAG |
By s.price From PS,CO Jan 20, 2012
| It is a bit fuzzy. Maybe we should define a highball as an ascent with no rehearsal and a solo as one with rehearsal. Within the context of bouldering ticking and rehearsal are just a way to dumb it down in my book. Step Up, don't dumb down |  FLAG |
By Brendan Blanchard From Strafford, NH Jan 20, 2012
| Do what you want, but personally I would only drop a rope and rehearse if the problem was more like a solo. You just have to deal with it if the problem is 15-25 feet, over that I would probably use the Kevin Jorgeson method, roped pre-rehearsal for a solo. |  FLAG |
By Richard Radcliffe From Louisville, CO Jan 20, 2012
| David Sahalie wrote: I know my answer, but i've seen a lot high balls go up recently with a fair bit of pre-rehearsal. the send is then sent without a rope. in my mind, it is a bit fuzzy though seeing as a lot of routes in say the Peak District are pre-reheased. So, is it of ok if you are going to use a rope and gear but not if you are going to high-ball aka solo? Seems a bit hypocritical really. Yeah, I know what you mean. Wearing expensive Prana or Patagonia climbing pants is lame when all you really need is a pair of expensive Carhart pants. It's unbelievable. These people should be banished from climbing for doing shit that I think is stupid. Oops. Wrong thread. Sorry... |  FLAG |
By Fat Dad From Los Angeles, CA Jan 20, 2012
| Crag Dweller wrote: wtf, who cares?! do what you need to do to keep from injuring yourself. it's just climbing, er, bouldering. Amen. As someone who's had two knee surgeries for a blown out knee, it's not worth getting injured over. Plus, with some of these highballs, you're looking at not just a blown out knee, you're looking at spinal injury or death. Do you really want to put yourself or your family through that? |  FLAG |
By ian watson From Albuquerque, NM Jan 20, 2012
| Crag Dweller wrote: wtf, who cares?! do what you need to do to keep from injuring yourself. it's just climbing, er, bouldering. EDIT= turns out it was x3 did not make it to the bottom before posting. |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Jan 20, 2012
| Toproping has long been an accepted part of bouldering. Many of John Gill's famous boulder problems were originally done as topropes. That said, he also did some seriously bold, ground up highballs (like the Thimble). Jump forward to modern practices, here in Bishop: many of the most serious highballs have only been done with TR rehearsal, some have been put up boldly without ever using a rope, and some have been done ground up by repeat ascentionists after being originally established using roped rehearsal. The lesson: do whatever you like. Sometimes it is appropriate to be cautious, and other times you need to be bold. |  FLAG |
By Kevin Landolt From Fort Collins, Wyoming Jan 20, 2012
| Who cares? Make your own decisions, take your own risks, and reap your own rewards. |  FLAG |
By camhead From The Old Northwest Jan 20, 2012
| Bob Murray originally did his eponymous problems on the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco as topropes. |  FLAG |
By JCM From Golden, CO Jan 20, 2012
| It is also worth thinking about how much bouldering has strayed from its "pure and simple" ideal in the age of highballs and pad-stacking. One of the best aspects of bouldering is the removal of the logistics that complicate other forms of climbing. It is really nice; go to a boulderfield with shoes, chalk, and a pad or two, and enjoy good movement on good rock. This simplicity ideal falls apart, though, for highballs that demand many pads and many spotters. Rounding up 10+ pads and a number of spotters does not make for a simple outing. Doing these same problems by bringing a short rope and a bit of gear to drop a TR does, in fact, make for a much simpler and less gear-intensive outing, even if it is less bold. |  FLAG |
By Rob Gordon From Hollywood, CA Jan 20, 2012
| Mike wrote: If you want to do it then do it. Who cares if others view it as 'legit' or not? Climb however you want, just be honest about it. +1 |  FLAG |
By Blake Cash Jan 20, 2012
| The Larry wrote: Fixed that for ya. I agree, it is a bit fuzzy, but I think we as Americans have the duty to not soil the ascent of a highball with tactics used by gritstone prancers. Where do you draw the line between highball and solo? You talk like there is some cut and dry rule for climbing, anything. I think by "fuzzy" you mean, "there are going to be mixed opinions because rules and ethics in climbing are solely based on 'opinions'." There's no governing body, there is no handbook, there is only what you think is the best style for you, that's it man. TR away. Who the F cares? |  FLAG |
By bergbryce From South Lake Tahoe, CA Jan 20, 2012
| If I ever got injured bouldering, I'd be fuggin' pissed. |  FLAG |
By bubbawayne Jan 20, 2012
| Yeah, I know what you mean. Wearing expensive Prana or Patagonia climbing pants is lame when all you really need is a pair of expensive Carhart pants. It's unbelievable. These people should be banished from climbing for doing shit that I think is stupid. Dickies 20 bucks at Wal-Mart. |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Jan 20, 2012
| I'm going to call bullshit on this entire thread now. I know, I know, having a Dorsey moment, are we? The difference is that I am going to explain myself thoroughly and not name-call unless it's very funny. 1) David's mentioned numerous times that he was around back in the day at Hueco. I refuse to believe that someone who's been bouldering at Hueco since I was squeezing out mashed bananas in my Huggies has any questions about bouldering worth posing to the assembled noobs and haters on Our Fair Site. 2) There are now 2 bouldering books out, the new Beal one and the old Bensman one. First, it's insane that people are writing books about things most people can figure out while so stoned that they've semi-permanently lost their shirts, and second, other than the meaning of a dab and a few hand/foot techniques that are available in pretty much any climbing instruction book, what the hell is there to discuss about hanging out on pads and trying tough moves, ever? 3) No one ever got miffed about the number of ropes used on a route, and for good reason-it's a personal protection issue that is very simple to figure out based on rope drag and psychological boost available from a super skinny and therefore light rope (or 3) versus the probably-not-gonna-die-since-I'm-falling-on-the-10.5 equation. Anyone reporting number and types of pads used for a problem would get laughed off the site, it's fucking bouldering, it's just pads, and who cares? And last but not least, anyone used to climbing big walls on a regular basis is likely to call anything under 50 feet and pretty tough pretty much bouldering anyway, and using a rope or not usually is more affected by a person's desire to impress the ladymen nearby than some kind of soul pursuit a la Bachar or Jeff Lowe. We really are talking non-issues here. Which is why I'm posting a photo of Megan Fox, which is both more interesting and more memorable than this discussion.
| Feel free to continue talking about bouldering now. It is a very interesting subject. Submitted By: Killing In The Name Of on Jan 20, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By Forsty From Fort Collins, CO Jan 20, 2012
| Having just badly sprained an ankle falling from a boulder i wish I had a rope ha. In all seriousness Gil top roped problems back in the day all the time, many people do it who are pretty respected in the community. Sure there are people who dont top rope a problem before hand, more power to them but there is nothing wrong with checking something out to avoid injury. I wish I had and then I could be climbing instead of sitting on my computer. |  FLAG |
By Josh Olson From madison, wisconsin Jan 20, 2012
| Forsty wrote: Having just badly sprained an ankle falling from a boulder i wish I had a rope ha. In all seriousness Gil top roped problems back in the day all the time, many people do it who are pretty respected in the community. Sure there are people who dont top rope a problem before hand, more power to them but there is nothing wrong with checking something out to avoid injury. I wish I had and then I could be climbing instead of sitting on my computer. Gill also established a lot of problems without a rope, onsight, some that I know of (with my limited knowledge on the subject) in the 5.10 range and 60 or 70 feet tall. Example: mountainproject.com/v/gills-crack/105730955 |  FLAG |
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