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toproping highballs



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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Jan 20, 2012

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Jan 20, 2012
25' drop...wheeeeee!

www.mountainproject.com/v/better-bouldering-tips-from-john-s>>>

Don't headpoint boulders, they're boulders. Rise to the challenge.


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By s.price
From PS,CO
Jan 20, 2012
A couple of locals. Took this pic in my driveway.

Throw a rope on it and it is no longer a highball. Now it's just a short toprope.


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Jan 20, 2012
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

David Sahalie wrote:
only to clean and tick or is it legit to rehearse moves too?


If you want to do it then do it. Who cares if others view it as 'legit' or not? Climb however you want, just be honest about it.


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By Crag Dweller
From Denver, CO
Jan 20, 2012
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

wtf, who cares?! do what you need to do to keep from injuring yourself. it's just climbing, er, bouldering.


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By s.price
From PS,CO
Jan 20, 2012
A couple of locals. Took this pic in my driveway.

It is a bit fuzzy.
Maybe we should define a highball as an ascent with no rehearsal and a solo as one with rehearsal. Within the context of bouldering ticking and rehearsal are just a way to dumb it down in my book. Step Up, don't dumb down


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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
Jan 20, 2012
Knife Crack

Rope it, don't worry about what anyone thinks.


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Jan 20, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Do what you want, but personally I would only drop a rope and rehearse if the problem was more like a solo. You just have to deal with it if the problem is 15-25 feet, over that I would probably use the Kevin Jorgeson method, roped pre-rehearsal for a solo.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 20, 2012
OTL

www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=343117585707713


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By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Jan 20, 2012

David Sahalie wrote:
I know my answer, but i've seen a lot high balls go up recently with a fair bit of pre-rehearsal. the send is then sent without a rope. in my mind, it is a bit fuzzy though seeing as a lot of routes in say the Peak District are pre-reheased. So, is it of ok if you are going to use a rope and gear but not if you are going to high-ball aka solo? Seems a bit hypocritical really.

Yeah, I know what you mean. Wearing expensive Prana or Patagonia climbing pants is lame when all you really need is a pair of expensive Carhart pants. It's unbelievable. These people should be banished from climbing for doing shit that I think is stupid.

Oops. Wrong thread. Sorry...


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Jan 20, 2012

Crag Dweller wrote:
wtf, who cares?! do what you need to do to keep from injuring yourself. it's just climbing, er, bouldering.

Amen. As someone who's had two knee surgeries for a blown out knee, it's not worth getting injured over. Plus, with some of these highballs, you're looking at not just a blown out knee, you're looking at spinal injury or death. Do you really want to put yourself or your family through that?


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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Jan 20, 2012

Crag Dweller wrote:
wtf, who cares?! do what you need to do to keep from injuring yourself. it's just climbing, er, bouldering.

EDIT= turns out it was x3 did not make it to the bottom before posting.


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Jan 20, 2012

Toproping has long been an accepted part of bouldering. Many of John Gill's famous boulder problems were originally done as topropes. That said, he also did some seriously bold, ground up highballs (like the Thimble).

Jump forward to modern practices, here in Bishop: many of the most serious highballs have only been done with TR rehearsal, some have been put up boldly without ever using a rope, and some have been done ground up by repeat ascentionists after being originally established using roped rehearsal.

The lesson: do whatever you like. Sometimes it is appropriate to be cautious, and other times you need to be bold.


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By Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Jan 20, 2012

Who cares? Make your own decisions, take your own risks, and reap your own rewards.


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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Jan 20, 2012
This painting was taken from engravings made during the 1859 Macomb Expedition, which attempted to locate the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers   in the present-day Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  Anyone who has spent time in Indian Creek will recognize the features here. <br /> <br />If you're interested, the survey's official report, as well as more landscape paintings like this one, are available in full on google books. <br /> <br /><a href='http://books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=macomb+expedition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=DvEeT9KcFvC40gHIuukH&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=macomb%20expedition&f=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&d>>></a>

Bob Murray originally did his eponymous problems on the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco as topropes.


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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Jan 20, 2012

It is also worth thinking about how much bouldering has strayed from its "pure and simple" ideal in the age of highballs and pad-stacking. One of the best aspects of bouldering is the removal of the logistics that complicate other forms of climbing. It is really nice; go to a boulderfield with shoes, chalk, and a pad or two, and enjoy good movement on good rock.

This simplicity ideal falls apart, though, for highballs that demand many pads and many spotters. Rounding up 10+ pads and a number of spotters does not make for a simple outing. Doing these same problems by bringing a short rope and a bit of gear to drop a TR does, in fact, make for a much simpler and less gear-intensive outing, even if it is less bold.


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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Jan 20, 2012
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...

Mike wrote:
If you want to do it then do it. Who cares if others view it as 'legit' or not? Climb however you want, just be honest about it.


+1


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By Blake Cash
Jan 20, 2012

The Larry wrote:
Fixed that for ya. I agree, it is a bit fuzzy, but I think we as Americans have the duty to not soil the ascent of a highball with tactics used by gritstone prancers. Where do you draw the line between highball and solo?



You talk like there is some cut and dry rule for climbing, anything. I think by "fuzzy" you mean, "there are going to be mixed opinions because rules and ethics in climbing are solely based on 'opinions'." There's no governing body, there is no handbook, there is only what you think is the best style for you, that's it man. TR away. Who the F cares?


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Jan 20, 2012
Russ

Cross_Pollination:

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1726285/At-what-point-do-yo>>>


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 20, 2012

If I ever got injured bouldering, I'd be fuggin' pissed.


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By bubbawayne
Jan 20, 2012

Yeah, I know what you mean. Wearing expensive Prana or Patagonia climbing pants is lame when all you really need is a pair of expensive Carhart pants. It's unbelievable. These people should be banished from climbing for doing shit that I think is stupid.


Dickies 20 bucks at Wal-Mart.


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By Killing In The Name Of
Jan 20, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

I'm going to call bullshit on this entire thread now. I know, I know, having a Dorsey moment, are we? The difference is that I am going to explain myself thoroughly and not name-call unless it's very funny.

1) David's mentioned numerous times that he was around back in the day at Hueco. I refuse to believe that someone who's been bouldering at Hueco since I was squeezing out mashed bananas in my Huggies has any questions about bouldering worth posing to the assembled noobs and haters on Our Fair Site.

2) There are now 2 bouldering books out, the new Beal one and the old Bensman one. First, it's insane that people are writing books about things most people can figure out while so stoned that they've semi-permanently lost their shirts, and second, other than the meaning of a dab and a few hand/foot techniques that are available in pretty much any climbing instruction book, what the hell is there to discuss about hanging out on pads and trying tough moves, ever?

3) No one ever got miffed about the number of ropes used on a route, and for good reason-it's a personal protection issue that is very simple to figure out based on rope drag and psychological boost available from a super skinny and therefore light rope (or 3) versus the probably-not-gonna-die-since-I'm-falling-on-the-10.5 equation. Anyone reporting number and types of pads used for a problem would get laughed off the site, it's fucking bouldering, it's just pads, and who cares?

And last but not least, anyone used to climbing big walls on a regular basis is likely to call anything under 50 feet and pretty tough pretty much bouldering anyway, and using a rope or not usually is more affected by a person's desire to impress the ladymen nearby than some kind of soul pursuit a la Bachar or Jeff Lowe.

We really are talking non-issues here. Which is why I'm posting a photo of Megan Fox, which is both more interesting and more memorable than this discussion.

Feel free to continue talking about bouldering now. It is a very interesting subject.
Feel free to continue talking about bouldering now. It is a very interesting subject.
Submitted By: Killing In The Name Of on Jan 20, 2012


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By Forsty
From Fort Collins, CO
Jan 20, 2012

Having just badly sprained an ankle falling from a boulder i wish I had a rope ha. In all seriousness Gil top roped problems back in the day all the time, many people do it who are pretty respected in the community. Sure there are people who dont top rope a problem before hand, more power to them but there is nothing wrong with checking something out to avoid injury. I wish I had and then I could be climbing instead of sitting on my computer.


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Jan 20, 2012
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

Forsty wrote:
Having just badly sprained an ankle falling from a boulder i wish I had a rope ha. In all seriousness Gil top roped problems back in the day all the time, many people do it who are pretty respected in the community. Sure there are people who dont top rope a problem before hand, more power to them but there is nothing wrong with checking something out to avoid injury. I wish I had and then I could be climbing instead of sitting on my computer.


Gill also established a lot of problems without a rope, onsight, some that I know of (with my limited knowledge on the subject) in the 5.10 range and 60 or 70 feet tall. Example: mountainproject.com/v/gills-crack/105730955


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