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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Toprope Right of Formula 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Levin, Matt Samet
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Steve Levin on May 6, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the arete right of The Formula to a difficult wall exit. We climbed the right side of the arete, but Andy Donson climbed the left side on a later TR ascent. Difficult crimping and balance moves down low, a bit more thuggish up high.


Protection 

As a lead, not much.



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By Steve McCorkel
Dec 29, 2005

Not knowing about this nice looking route as I was looking at it the other day, a thought occurred to me; "Eldo could still use some thoughtfully established routes with bolts, but not necessarily bolted routes". Headpoints are good too. Often a nice lead will have a greater climbing quality than a top-roped climb; so will a headpoint.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 29, 2005

There are several lines in Eldo where a bolt or 2 would open it as a lead, still dangerous but not suicidal. This route is a prime example. The problem is the FHRC guidelines stipulate that bolts be used to create "safe" climbs. Standards are rising; certainly 5.12x is within the comfort zone for some of the young and strong highball boulderers who call Boulder home. So maybe adding a bolt or 2 here and there is no longer necessary?

There is still a lot of unclimbed rock in Eldorado.