Despite the name this route is bolted and leadable although the runout nature of the climbing keeps it a toprope for most. The route features thin edge climbing with the slightly thinner crux about midway between the two bolts.
Perhaps not quite an R rated route but it is a heads-up lead and falling at the crux might land you on the lower-angled bit below the first bolt - which wouldn't be good for your ankles.
Just left of Edger Sanction in the center of the slab.
2 bolts (1/4"), 3 bolt anchor/rap (3/8")
BETA PHOTO: This climbs the brown spots on the left side of th...
|Comments on Toprope Problem
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
Another nice, delicate face climb but the crux really isn't much harder than Edger Sanction, and less sustained. I've thought about leading it but not too psyched about the old spinning hangers.
From: Arcadia, Califoria
Jun 9, 2009
Not to be rude, but I think this route is thiner and harder than Edger Sanction at 10a. Not as sustained, but way thiner. 10c/d is about right,IMO. I lead this back before there were two bolts on the route. A real attention graber! Even with the two bolts, it's still a rush.
|By Benjamin Chapman|
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 26, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Tony's comments are right on! It was a rush when there was only one bolt, and while the crux is short, the route is significantly thinner and harder than Edger Sanction.