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Rich Brereton
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Apr 6, 2016
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Pownal, ME
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 175
We're talking hardest single pitches in the Northeast (CT, MA, ME, RI, NH, NY, VT). NJ and PA do not count as they are stuck in the Mid-Atlantic with MD and DE. Pure physical difficulty is much more important than R/X climbing, though tough-to-place gear certainly counts towards making something more physically difficult. My top ten (in some order): Difficulties Be Damned, Cathedral Northern Hospitality, Cathedral Cecile, Cathedral Geezer Pleaser at Stonehouse Pond Oppositional Defiance Disorder, Silver Lake, Dacks Ill Fire (Illuminescence-Fire in the Sky linkup), Moss Cliff, Dacks Wheelin' and Dealin', Spider's Web, Dacks Ozone (Twilight Zone-French Connection linkup), Gunks Cybernetic Wall, Gunks Monumantle, Gunks Post up if you think you have a route that knocks any of these off the list. Many have not even seen a second ascent, so grade haggling is somewhat pointless (and yet, so fun). Just be warned, it does have to be 13d-ish to have a shot. EDIT: keep 'em coming, and I'll keep amending the list as need be. Honorable mention: Moonshine and Chronic, Mud Pond, Dacks (has four bolts to go with some gear) Mushu, Little Johnson, Dacks (Is it a trad route? Don't know enough about it but the picture on Adirondack Rock's website makes it look like a sport route. Please give details) Off the Couch, The Crown, Dacks(?) (not quite hard enough to bump W&D off) The Hard Way and Stoning the Fascist, Marshfield, VT (both mostly sport bolted, I think) Maniac on Quoddy Head, Maine (details are a little sketchy on this obscure route but apparently it is half sport-bolted. Please offer more details if you can) Bulletproof, Farley (Some still say 13+, and grade surely depends somewhat on body part sizes as with most offwidths, but this has settled in at 13-) Clairvoyance, Gunks (not quite hard enough to bump W&D off)
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DR
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Apr 6, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 973
I'd say just talk to Peter Kamitses and he could come up with a list since he has done a bunch of them.
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MaxSuffering
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Apr 6, 2016
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KVNY
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 0
Oppositional Defiance Disorder is actually at Silver Lake, not Moss Cliff. Maybe you're thinking of Illuminescence? Also add in: Mushu (5.13d), Little Johnson. Moonshine And Chronic (5.13+), Silver Lake Off The Couch (5.13c), The Crown. There's another Adirondack project that will reportedly come in around .13d/.14a when it goes.
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Bill Kirby
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Apr 6, 2016
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
MaxSuffering wrote:Oppositional Defiance Disorder is actually at Silver Lake, not Moss Cliff. Maybe you're thinking of Illuminescence? Also add in: Mushu (5.13d), Little Johnson. Moonshine And Chronic (5.13+), Silver Lake Off The Couch (5.13c), The Crown. There's another Adirondack project that will reportedly come in around .13d/.14a when it goes. Ahh.. You beat me to it. I remembered seeing a full page pic of Pete on ODD in ADK Rock. So I got out the book and look it up. Not that I wanted to thumb through the guide book. Damn current weather.
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Kristen Fiore
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Apr 6, 2016
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Burlington, VT
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 3,378
Ozone, 5.14a R in the gunks. I know PK has done it but the FA was Cody Sims and only those two are believed to have placed all gear on lead.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Apr 6, 2016
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Pomfret VT
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 440
Pete has a 14a at marshefield in VT
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Ward Smith
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Apr 6, 2016
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Wendell MA
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 295
Maniac is (or was) a sport climb.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Apr 6, 2016
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Pomfret VT
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 440
thought I saw a shot in the book of him plugging gear?
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Kristen Fiore
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Apr 6, 2016
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Burlington, VT
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 3,378
Nick, Stoning the Facist (14b) and The Hard Way (14a) both need gear but have bolts. Not sure what to call that for the sake of this thread.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Apr 7, 2016
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Pomfret VT
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 440
I suppose that depends on how the bolts went in and how much gear is needed.
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Jon Frisby
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Apr 7, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 270
Clairvoyance at the Gunks has two bolts and is 13c
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Suburban Roadside
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Apr 7, 2016
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Abovetraffic on Hudson
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 2,419
The problem is that the folks who know what is what & was done do not lurk or post. In the spirit of sharing I will mention Mantronics, a Jerry Moffet FA right there at the Survival block. & Jordan mills, (w/Clune) - Blade Runner. Now an expensive ( if you can't flash, which you can't ) affair to climb @ Sky Top Russ Clune's Roof at Ski Mini. .,. Er, I mean Peterskill ( Russ has the knowledge for sure )
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Joe M
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Apr 7, 2016
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MA and NH
· Joined Dec 2008
· Points: 11,725
Bullet Proof at Farley, 5.13+ off width...
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Jon Frisby
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Apr 7, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 270
Joe M. wrote:Bullet Proof at Farley, 5.13+ off width... the boulder problem down low is absolutely unreal. Saw some folks working it the other day - the difference in beta is knee-size dependent. hahaha
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Rich Brereton
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Apr 7, 2016
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Pownal, ME
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 175
Awesome. Thanks for the corrections Ward and Max. And thanks other folks for posting up a bunch of rad routes I had never heard of. I'll update the list.
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Morgan Patterson
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Apr 7, 2016
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
DRusso wrote:I'd say just talk to Peter Kamitses and he could come up with a list since he has done a bunch of them. this...
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Jon Po
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Apr 7, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 255
Planet Claire at the Gunks clocks in at 14b with gnarly R section that is probably at least 5.12.
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Jon Frisby
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Apr 7, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 270
Is that the think next to Clairvoyance? Looks ridiculous. If so, does the R climbing get cozier using the Clairvoyance bolts or is it way up high?
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Jon Po
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Apr 7, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 255
It traverses up and right from the final Clairvoyance bolt not really sure how hard it is. I've only seen people climb it.
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Matt Wilson
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Apr 7, 2016
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Vermont, USA
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 316
Does "The Fly" count? I know it's bolted but you could opt only to use trad gear... and a bouldering pad w/ spotters....
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Jon Po
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Apr 7, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 255
Not trying to start a heated discussion but can't any sport route be a trad route if you opt to not use bolts?
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