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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
May 1, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
Generally it's not necessary to have a ton of beer waiting for you back at the car because after you swill a few in the P-Lot you can always head to Hooty's for a good time. +1 for static rope and cord.

FLAG
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 2, 2012
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
When you guys suggest an anchors clinic, I take it you mean walk around to different popular climbs and actually set them up? At the East Rampart?

FLAG
By EB
From Winona
May 2, 2012
I personally feel its bad form to take groups to the most congested area of the park(east rampart). I think students do better in an environment with no external pressure where they can feel free to ask questions. there are so many great obscure crags that work perfectly for teaching objectives that there really is no reason to be leading groups on the east rampart. It just adds to the crowding. Its my opinion that guides/instructors who take groups to the east rampart are either lazy or haven't taking the time to do a site visit/assessment for their group( i.e. explored the park for the best options).

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By Woodchuck ATC
May 2, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Doug Hemken wrote:
When you guys suggest an anchors clinic, I take it you mean walk around to different popular climbs and actually set them up? At the East Rampart?


Since that area has always been the most popular and has many nice climbs, learning how and where to set them has always been something of importance to new climb leaders. BUT these 'lessons' in anchor building have been part of a full course usually done in out of the way places to learn first; then off to learn the East Bluffs. Held on weekdays, early AM, in spring or maybe June but not during best weather months or weekends. I'm speaking from past 'courses' years ago by Jim Ebert and Iowa Mountaineers with the National Top Rope Leaders certification program he taught. I would hope that the on-site classes taught by VE and others today would also choose places like Stettners and to hold them on off days and hours whenever they can.

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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 2, 2012
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
I agree about not teaching large groups at the East Bluff ... that's why I asked.

However, there is nothing quite like practicing good anchors in the place where we most often see bad ones.

We (Hoofers) do take groups of 10-12 for anchors clinics up to the East Rampart, BUT after the initial discussion portion we divide them into groups of 2-3, spread them out, strike ropes quickly or allow others to use them. We also tend to concentrate on placed-gear anchors rather than using a lot of natural anchors. So far that approach has worked pretty well for us and seems to have a low social impact.

(Beginners clinics we always avoid the East Rampart. Lead clinics vary, and location depends a lot on the number of participants and their level of confidence. Aid I've ONLY ever done at the East Rampart!)

FLAG
By EB
From Winona
May 2, 2012
Sounds like you guys have a great program Doug. I know the Hoofers reputation, solid.

FLAG
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 2, 2012
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
I wouldn't exactly call it a "program". It's more a set of constantly evolving traditions. We're really a club, and not a school or a guide service.

Climbing and climbing trips, that's our main thing.

FLAG
By Woodchuck ATC
May 2, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Doug Hemken wrote:
I wouldn't exactly call it a "program". It's more a set of constantly evolving traditions. We're really a club, and not a school or a guide service. Climbing and climbing trips, that's our main thing.


And proudly the Centennial Challenge too, Part II coming this summer I believe?. Was glad to be a participant last year. Love my fancy engraved award 'biner. Wish I had the time available to upgrade my ascents this summer.

FLAG
 
By salisbur1
From Boulder
May 6, 2012
I thought the reason to not have a bunch of beer left in the car was because you'd have to run back down to get it. Why would you leave it?

FLAG
By Woodchuck ATC
May 6, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Well as far as the beer goes, this is the NO-beer season at DL, until Memorial Day weekend you can't even have a beer present at your campsite let alone in your car after the climbs. No booze during high school senior high jinks, prom and party spring.

FLAG
By NickinCO
From colorado
May 6, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Well as far as the beer goes, this is the NO-beer season at DL, until Memorial Day weekend you can't even have a beer present at your campsite let alone in your car after the climbs. No booze during high school senior high jinks, prom and party spring.


WHAT?!?!?!?!?!? I never knew this... looks like I was breaking the rules for the last 4 years hahahaha.

FLAG
By EB
From Winona
May 7, 2012
I think they have rescinded the no alcohol thing. I want to say they stopped it 5- 6 years ago... am I wrong on this??

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By Woodchuck ATC
May 7, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
EB wrote:
I think they have rescinded the no alcohol thing. I want to say they stopped it 5- 6 years ago... am I wrong on this??


You could be right as I'm not savvy to the latest rules on alcohol, but speaking from DNR gestapo experiences I'm not the one to ask or try it out. Seem they seldom wander from their goals of making money off visitor mistakes. My 25 mph in a 15 zone ended up costing over $1400 bucks so I can imagine I would end up getting hard time to serve if I was caught drinking in park during spring. If they reversed this, I'm all for it.

FLAG


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