This is the obvious crack line just uphill from The Joint Venture & Strategery (the most uphill bolted lines as of 7.10.4) on the Dinosaur's Foot. It is probably part of the nebulous Top Rope Wall area. This curving cleft just begs to be climbed to the trad at heart. Can you feel the pull? Are your hands & feet getting sucked toward the crack? Yet another moderate when the lines are long....
Fire up the fissure with more face climbing & laybacking than jamming. About 30 feet up, you may encounter a crux. Trust your feet and step up. You can venture left to avoid a face climbing crux or go straight up for a bit more difficulty. Find the 3 bolt anchor at the top without rappel rings or links.
You can rappel or walk off down & right along a broad ramp. You can also access this as a TR from this same ramp.
1.12 stars ;)
Surprisingly, smaller pro to #2 Camalot.
Three bolt anchor for top rope. Laybacks and face...
Late March, 2014.
|By Tits McGee|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2009
Decent climb, but the protection is not obvious and the crux moves were tricky to protect. Novice leaders at the grade should think about TRing before placing pro on lead.
|By J C Wilks|
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 12, 2013
Using the anchors of Top Rope Wall Crack, starting right of the first bolt of Strategery and staying 3-10 feet left of TRWC is a fun 5.10 face on good edges and smears.
|By Matt Pierce|
From: Denver, CO
Jul 5, 2013
The top of this route - past the crux is very difficult to protect. The climbing felt like 5.7, but placing gear here would be very difficult.
|By Dominic Rickicki|
5 days ago
Hopped on this route real quick one evening because I felt the pull of plugging gear on it as the description says. Not really that bad of a route, a fun undercling move and some nice laybacks give a nice change up to the other routes at Jurassic. I agree with others though on the gear beta. Once underneath the large flake pro just gets real in-obvious. Carrying no RPs or TCUs and missing what my partner pointed out as a decent #2 placement in the horizontal below the flake I had ran it out to groundfall territory before popping in a solid 0.5 Camalot in a horizontal high above the flake just before the easier finish. The climbing isn't that hard, and the cruxes are short, just make sure you've got your lead head on before cruising up it.