top rope on homeward spire 5.10a/b X
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | josh balt on May 18, 2012 |
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Description This Route has been traditionally top roped for a number of years, and should remain a toprop. The route goes directly up the impressive prow of homeward spire facing the road. It is said that Ren Fenton would Boulder up the prow for about 20 to 30 feet and then come down. I decided to go for it today past the 30 ft point and push it from the ground to the top. There is no gear and no bolts. The entire time I had the song "The Cave" by Mumford and sons, blasting from my car. "Its empty in the valley of your heart The sun, it rises slowly as you walk Away from all the fears And all the faults you've left behind The harvest left no food for you to eat You cannibal, you meat-eater, you see But I have seen the same I know the shame in your defeat But I will hold on hope And I will let you choke On the noose around your neck And I'll find strength in pain And I will change my ways I'll know my name as it's called again Cause I have other things to fill my time You take what is yours and I'll take mine Now let me at the truth Which will refresh my broken mind So tie me to a post and block my ears I can see widows and orphans through my tears I know my call despite my faults And despite my growing fears So come out of your cave walking on your hands And see the world hanging upside down You can understand dependence When you know the maker's land So make your siren's call And sing all you want I will not hear what you have to say Cause I need freedom now And I need to know how To live my life as it's meant to be -The Cave Mumford and Sons-
Location Needles Style Rapple off the summit.
Protection No Bolts Its A free solo
| Comments on top rope on homeward spire |
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By Branden Michelkamp From: Menomonie WI May 19, 2012
| Impressive send man, I am glad I could be a part of your accomplishment. |
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD May 20, 2012
| Impressive send but the F.A. was climbed in about 1983 by Mike Head..... Paul Muehl thwarted Head's bolting and told him to remove the bolts or they would disappear despite the style they were placed so Head ran it out to the summit. I don't believe this route was ever documented in the Blue Book. An F.A. is an F.A. CSP has in the past requested no one climb this line..... Glad to hear of no bolts. |
By josh balt From: Hill City South Dakota Jun 7, 2012
| brent good to know. Thanks for the beta. I had no idea that there were bolts at one point on the climb. Anyway your right. I may be the first to do it with out bolts but still no FFA. Thats fine with me. |
By Robbie Freidel From: The Needles of South Dakota Jul 19, 2012
| I'm not positive, but i believe the original name of the this route was "Helen of Troy" |
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