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 ADVANCED
Brown Cloud Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-viral T,TR 
Ark, The T 
Axis of Weasels T 
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 
Big Dihedral T,TR 
Bolted Line S 
Brown Cloud ArÍte S,TR 
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 
Chimney T 
Crack T,TR 
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 
Crack (right of Interface) T 
Crack/Chimney T,TR 
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 
Iraqi Road T 
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 
Kid's Climb S,TR 
Killian's Dead T,TR 
Louise S,TR 
Louise Arete TR 
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 
Of Sound Mind and Body T 
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 
Pee Into the Wind T 
Pee on Dee S,TR 
Pee on Me T 
Protection From the Virus S,TR 
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 
Retro-Crack T 
Right of Interface T 
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 
Tenacious S,TR 
Thelma S,TR 
Thick Crust T 
Tiny Face T,TR 
Tiny Pillar TR 
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 
Unknown Crack T,TR 
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 
Unknown left of Left Slab T 
Unknown Route S 
Variation to The Virus T,S 
Virus, The S 
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 
Wide Crack T,TR 
Windy Days S,TR 
Ypsilon T,TR 

Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Hubbel and Deaun Schovajsa, bolted - Dan Hare & Moe Hershoff
Page Views: 1,736
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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This should clear up the route description issue, ...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Our interpretation is that you climb up the face to the roof at which point you swing out onto the arete and reach way up (crux) for a good hold. Finish by coming back toward the center of the face.


Protection 

Set up an anchor that reduces the pendulum potential as much as possible. You'll need some #2 Friends, a #1 Friend, stoppers, or the like plus some 5 foot slings and runners for equalization. ;-) It looks like someone has drilled holes for bolts, but hasn't put them in yet.

Eds. there are now 4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. You could use a finger-sized cam. The right anchor has now been fixed.


Photo 

To the right of the climber in the photo to the right is the route.



Photos of Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Campbell stands triumphant above the roof.
Josh Campbell stands triumphant above the roof.
4. New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 9+. <br />5. The Virus, 12-. <br />6. Thick Crust, 7. <br />7. Unnamed Face, 10+. <br />8. Big Dihedral, 8. <br />9. Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines, 8. <br />10. Protection from the Virus, 10.
BETA PHOTO: 4. New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 9+.
5. The Viru...
Comments on Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Sep 18, 2006

If this is the route just right of the Big Dihedral, and I think it is, then I have some news. The route has been bolted, badly, not only should this be a trad route, but one of anchor bolts is in very bad shape. It's totally loose. I don't know too much about bolts, but I would assume that the nut should not be adjustable by girly fingers. I started tightening it, but that only made the bolt come out further, and I'm guessing that is a bad thing. Somebody who knows what they are doing should come fix this so as to prevent injury and/or death.

By J mac
Jan 9, 2010

The anchor bolt has been fixed.

By Don Morris
From: Denver, CO
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The route is right of the dihedral, and has a name, Top Rope Face (11c), Hubbel, Peter and Schovajsa, Deaun, Classic Rock Climbs No. 17 Golden Cliffs, Colorado, 1997. The bolts are solid now, and placed well for a decent sport climb.