Top belaying two seconds on 6.9 flycatchers

Are they going to be doing the dying?

The only issue I can think of is diameter of the flycatchers make them more prone to being cut in the event of a fall. Is the safety margin not there? Bad idea? Thoughts, comments and shit talk all appreciated.

Don Ferris wrote:Are they going to be doing the dying? The only issue I can think of is diameter of the flycatchers make them more prone to being cut in the event of a fall. Is the safety margin not there? Bad idea? Thoughts, comments and shit talk all appreciated.

I certainly wouldn't tie into one strand on rock. A rope that skinny is going to have a wafer thin sheath - fine on ice for going ultra lightweight as a team of two, not so fine on rock. Are your friends going to be doing the dying while on TR? Probably not, but they don't be doing the not dying for long. Just keep in mind, it's a twin only rope - not rated as a double.

Then again, bouncing around on the end of an 8.9mm line out in space is sack tingling for me.

You nailed it, only real concern would be vulnerablity to abrasion IMO.

Also make sure you use the right belay device (micro jul or whatever they come with)

Matt Carroll wrote:You nailed it, only real concern would be vulnerablity to abrasion IMO. Also make sure you use the right belay device (micro jul or whatever they come with)

Good point - I would imagine a taut rope that skinny would invert in a typical "guide mode" belay device.

So what's the consensus here? Is it reasonably safe to lead on a set of twins like normal and have your two seconds follow the pitch tied into one strand each? Is there any documentation on this out there?

The main issues are:
Stretch during fall - climber hits ledge.
Sharp rock - cut during fall.

No other issues. Plenty strong, as far as strength goes.

I wouldn't hesitate to do it. Be aware of the limitations of the system, but for alpine stuff it would be an awesome super light setup.

Certainly light weight, but way too thin for my comfort level. Hell, jugging a free-hanging 9mm a thousand feet off the ground is freaky enough.