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Top 5 knots you use for Trad
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May 12, 2009
Suicide Rock
Tell me what your favorite five knots are that you think are the most important for trad. Gilles
From Arcata,CA
Joined May 11, 2009
62 points
May 12, 2009
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Clove Hitch, Muenter, prussic, tape knot, fishermans.
Not necessarily in that order. I am assuming the figure 8 and figure 8 retrace.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
286 points
May 12, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
clove Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,734 points
May 12, 2009
Middle Troll
Does clove count? Luke to Zuke
From Anchorage
Joined Apr 23, 2008
316 points
May 12, 2009
hitches are considered part of the knot classification, they just need another property to hold their form.

used for trad:

clove, eight on a bight, overhand, double fishermans, flat overhand, waterknot -- all could be for anchor rigs, which is what I think of when you say trad.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
May 12, 2009
Casual Route Pitch 3  Photo by Mark Cushman
1. Figure Eight (On a bite and not)
2. Clove Hitch
3. Water knot
4. Overhand
5. Double Fishermans

On a smooth trad climb with no hauling, extra gear and no emergencies I think that these five knots will get everything you need done from tying in to setting up anchors and repelling back down.

I also use the Double Bowline a lot for tying in when sport climbing or at the gym, but not so much when trad climbing.
cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 24, 2008
110 points
May 12, 2009
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.
What cheifitj said. I'd make the bowline #6. Avery N
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 10, 2006
694 points
May 12, 2009
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE&qu...
What everybody else said with one addition: The sliding overhand knot (also called the slip knot) on runners for slinging horns and such. It is amazing how much natural protection is out there if you look for it. Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
1,686 points
May 12, 2009
Shredded by the Center Route.
I only use three.

1- granny
2- double granny
3- triple granny (only when it gets real dangerous)

Remember, if you can't tie knots, tie lots.

jk
phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
693 points
May 12, 2009
good one Lee.

What about the webbing knot used like a stopper nut? (simple overhand/flat overhand??)
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
May 12, 2009
I get excited over a large desert rack
Never use it but good to know the Munter hitch if you loose or forget your belay device. and rarely use the prusik but it can get you out of a bad situation. rob rebel
From Denver, co
Joined Jan 20, 2006
35 points
May 12, 2009
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Lee Smith wrote:
What everybody else said with one addition: The sliding overhand knot (also called the slip knot) on runners for slinging horns and such. It is amazing how much natural protection is out there if you look for it.


I have only used a girth hitch for that, can you point me to an illustration on how you would use a slip knot? Would you want 2 equal length loops to clip a biner?

Forget it, I grabbed a piece of rope and figured it out, actually pretty obvious.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
286 points
May 12, 2009
Thunder
Good question! I would say the ones I use the most are-

1. fig 8 on a bight
2. clove hitch
3. overhand on a bight
4. water knot
5. double fishermans
6. prussik- emergency, ascend and self rescue

Also, know how to properly use a cordalette, which is standard protocol IMHO.

Hvae fun, climb safe!
Shane Neal
From Colorado Springs, CO.
Joined Mar 6, 2002
273 points
May 12, 2009
World Champion NY Giants logo
1. I'm not climbing on that crappy rope of yours
2. I'm not fucking leading that pitch!
3. I'm not not going to drink beer when we are done.
4. I'm not going to let you lead all the good pitchs while I get the choss pitchs
5. I'm not really sure what happened to the approach trail (used mostly in the S Plate)

Opps, maybe I misunderstood your tread.
Sergio P
From Idaho Springs, CO
Joined Oct 23, 2004
237 points
May 12, 2009
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Agree with most everything here.

1. I would replace double fishermans with overhand/euro death knot. Haven't used a fishermans in years.

2. I would replace prussic with Klemheist. Works well with round cord or flat webbing/slings. Can't say that for the prussic.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
May 12, 2009
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury  Aw...
Good topic!

1. Clove Hitch
2. Patagonia a.k.a. edk
3. overhand on a bight
4. figure eight on a bight
5. prusik
JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 18, 2006
834 points
May 12, 2009
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
For the act of climbing itself, including belaying, rapping, building anchors, and securing rope:
Figure 8
Clove hitch
Figure 8/Overhand on a bite
Tripple fishermans
Munter
In that order.

If you want to talk about rescue utility rather than the actual act of climbing, the situation changes. You need to know other stuff too.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,502 points
May 12, 2009
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Ko...
1. Figure eight (bite & ft)
2. Overhand
3. Clove hitch
4. Münter hitch
5. Klemheist ( > prusik...works well with cord and webbing alike)

1-3 are standard fare for everyday climbing. 4-5 are for when things don't go as planned.
Erik W
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 8, 2007
303 points
Administrator
May 12, 2009
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Knots.....hehe Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
May 12, 2009
Avi
no double loops yet? Luke W.
From Prescott
Joined Jan 17, 2009
277 points
May 12, 2009
Profiley Styley
1. Monkey Fist
2. Windsor
3. Double knotted shoelace
4. Slip knot
5. Monkey Fist
Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
Joined Sep 4, 2006
1,051 points
May 12, 2009
Me!
1. Figure Eight follow through
2. Overhand
3. Clove Hitch
4. Auto-block
5. Munter/Munter-Mule
Paul Shultz
From Hudson, Ma
Joined Jan 9, 2009
523 points
May 12, 2009
Just a teaser
1. clove hitch
2. girth hitch
3. double eared figure 8 on a bite
4. percell prusik (makes a sweet personal instead of a daisy) normall prusik too.
5. Munter
Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,039 points
May 12, 2009
Monkey Fist.

Nice one, sailor.
Mark Vogel
From Lander, WY
Joined Sep 9, 2008
43 points
May 12, 2009
Profiley Styley
Mark Vogel wrote:
Monkey Fist. Nice one, sailor.

It keeps my partners in line. "Want another one? Then get up there!"
Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
Joined Sep 4, 2006
1,051 points
May 12, 2009
The top!!
1. Figure eight
2. Clove hitch
3. Prussik
4. Water Knot
5. Euro Death Knot
George Wilson
From Las Vegas
Joined May 10, 2006
639 points


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