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Top 5 knots you use for Trad
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By Gilles
From Arcata,CA
May 12, 2009
Suicide Rock

Tell me what your favorite five knots are that you think are the most important for trad.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
May 12, 2009
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Clove Hitch, Muenter, prussic, tape knot, fishermans.
Not necessarily in that order. I am assuming the figure 8 and figure 8 retrace.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 12, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

clove


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By Luke to Zuke
From Anchorage
May 12, 2009
Middle Troll

Does clove count?


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By Buff Johnson
May 12, 2009
smiley face

hitches are considered part of the knot classification, they just need another property to hold their form.

used for trad:

clove, eight on a bight, overhand, double fishermans, flat overhand, waterknot -- all could be for anchor rigs, which is what I think of when you say trad.


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By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
May 12, 2009
Casual Route Pitch 3  <br />Photo by Mark Cushman

1. Figure Eight (On a bite and not)
2. Clove Hitch
3. Water knot
4. Overhand
5. Double Fishermans

On a smooth trad climb with no hauling, extra gear and no emergencies I think that these five knots will get everything you need done from tying in to setting up anchors and repelling back down.

I also use the Double Bowline a lot for tying in when sport climbing or at the gym, but not so much when trad climbing.


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By Avery N
From Boulder, CO
May 12, 2009
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.

What cheifitj said. I'd make the bowline #6.


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By Lee Smith
May 12, 2009
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE" your rope! <br />(Back by Popular Demand.  There you are Mom) <br /> <br />

What everybody else said with one addition: The sliding overhand knot (also called the slip knot) on runners for slinging horns and such. It is amazing how much natural protection is out there if you look for it.


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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
May 12, 2009
Shredded by the Center Route.

I only use three.

1- granny
2- double granny
3- triple granny (only when it gets real dangerous)

Remember, if you can't tie knots, tie lots.

jk


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By Buff Johnson
May 12, 2009
smiley face

good one Lee.

What about the webbing knot used like a stopper nut? (simple overhand/flat overhand??)


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By rob rebel
From boulder, co
May 12, 2009
I get excited over a large desert rack

Never use it but good to know the Munter hitch if you loose or forget your belay device. and rarely use the prusik but it can get you out of a bad situation.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
May 12, 2009
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Lee Smith wrote:
What everybody else said with one addition: The sliding overhand knot (also called the slip knot) on runners for slinging horns and such. It is amazing how much natural protection is out there if you look for it.


I have only used a girth hitch for that, can you point me to an illustration on how you would use a slip knot? Would you want 2 equal length loops to clip a biner?

Forget it, I grabbed a piece of rope and figured it out, actually pretty obvious.


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By Shane Neal
From Colorado Springs, CO.
May 12, 2009
Thunder

Good question! I would say the ones I use the most are-

1. fig 8 on a bight
2. clove hitch
3. overhand on a bight
4. water knot
5. double fishermans
6. prussik- emergency, ascend and self rescue

Also, know how to properly use a cordalette, which is standard protocol IMHO.

Hvae fun, climb safe!


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By Sergio P
From Idaho Springs, CO
May 12, 2009
World Champion NY Giants logo

1. I'm not climbing on that crappy rope of yours
2. I'm not fucking leading that pitch!
3. I'm not not going to drink beer when we are done.
4. I'm not going to let you lead all the good pitchs while I get the choss pitchs
5. I'm not really sure what happened to the approach trail (used mostly in the S Plate)

Opps, maybe I misunderstood your tread.


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By Greg D
From Here
May 12, 2009
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Agree with most everything here.

1. I would replace double fishermans with overhand/euro death knot. Haven't used a fishermans in years.

2. I would replace prussic with Klemheist. Works well with round cord or flat webbing/slings. Can't say that for the prussic.


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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 12, 2009
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!

Good topic!

1. Clove Hitch
2. Patagonia a.k.a. edk
3. overhand on a bight
4. figure eight on a bight
5. prusik


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 12, 2009
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

For the act of climbing itself, including belaying, rapping, building anchors, and securing rope:
Figure 8
Clove hitch
Figure 8/Overhand on a bite
Tripple fishermans
Munter
In that order.

If you want to talk about rescue utility rather than the actual act of climbing, the situation changes. You need to know other stuff too.


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By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
May 12, 2009
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.

1. Figure eight (bite & ft)
2. Overhand
3. Clove hitch
4. Münter hitch
5. Klemheist ( > prusik...works well with cord and webbing alike)

1-3 are standard fare for everyday climbing. 4-5 are for when things don't go as planned.


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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
May 12, 2009
Knife Crack

Knots.....hehe


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By Luke W.
From Prescott
May 12, 2009
Avi

no double loops yet?


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By Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
May 12, 2009
Profiley Styley

1. Monkey Fist
2. Windsor
3. Double knotted shoelace
4. Slip knot
5. Monkey Fist


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By Paul Shultz
From Hudson, Ma
May 12, 2009
Me! <br /> <br />

1. Figure Eight follow through
2. Overhand
3. Clove Hitch
4. Auto-block
5. Munter/Munter-Mule


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
May 12, 2009
Just a teaser

1. clove hitch
2. girth hitch
3. double eared figure 8 on a bite
4. percell prusik (makes a sweet personal instead of a daisy) normall prusik too.
5. Munter


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By Mark Vogel
From Lander, WY
May 12, 2009

Monkey Fist.

Nice one, sailor.


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By Mark Cushman
From Cumming, GA
May 12, 2009
Profiley Styley

Mark Vogel wrote:
Monkey Fist. Nice one, sailor.

It keeps my partners in line. "Want another one? Then get up there!"


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By George Wilson
From Las Vegas
May 12, 2009
The top!!

1. Figure eight
2. Clove hitch
3. Prussik
4. Water Knot
5. Euro Death Knot


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