Top 40 5.8
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Jessica laybacking toward the P1 anchors.
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Description If there are 40 routes on Wall Street then this definitely ranks in the Top 40. I wouldn't plan a road trip around it, but this is worth doing if you're looking for one of the few 5.8 leads in the desert or a warm up.
This left facing corner is distinguished by two drilled angles at the top.Upward progress can be made via almost any climbing technique: laybacking, jamming, stemming, etc. Locate the route on the left side of the cliff before encountering the second top roping area. To its left lies Lacto Mangulation (5.10b) a right facing corner with several bolts and to its right is skeletron (sp?) a bolted 5.11d.
Descent: Short rap to ground ~ 50 feet.
It looks possible to climb passed the anchor on Top 40 via a thin hand crack and achieve the top of the anchor on skeletron.
Protection Standard rack (nuts fit in a couple spots) + 2 quickdraws for the drill angles.
Looking down from the top of Top 40.
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Joe Simon on Top 40
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Steve T leading Top 40.
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By Dan Russell
May 10, 2003
| One of the few 5.8's in the desert? If you can't find an overabundance of 5.8 you're not looking very hard, or at all. |
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
May 15, 2003
| I thought this was a pretty fun route. It's easier than it looks. It's not only possible to climb the finger crack up and right of the anchors, it's part of the route and worth doing IMO. Barring communication issues and another party ascending Skeletron, these two short pitches can be combined. Be mindful of the loose blocks on the ledge near the Skeletron anchors. |
By Rhett Burroughs
From: Valdosta, GA
Oct 18, 2007
| Seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Maybe because I was worn out from the day.. I dunno! |
By JeffUT
From: Roy, Utah
May 24, 2010
| There's a nice ledge to stand on to the right of the belay anchors. I ended up setting a #3 Friend before I got to the first bolt. Fun route. |
By Jesse Western
From: ogden utah
Oct 28, 2010
| Cool route man... I think Jorma Hayes is the culprit behind this first ascent! Ya baby! I'll give the dude a buzz, I'm pretty sure though :) |
By John Braun
From: Boston, MA
Oct 24, 2011
| Somebody pounded in a piton about 6' up this route, they obviously put it in standing on that little ledge. Sure, the beginning is a little tricky, but seriously, a piton? It's since been removed. |
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