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Toothsheaf Transfusion
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | D Hersey, K. Ainsworth, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,336 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 21, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is difficult and cruxy, but fun! Leading this route would demand confidence, as the body position at the crux moves would leave a falling leader extremely vulnerable to head or spinal injuries. I did this route on toprope, looking for protection opportunity for a future red-point along the way. After seeing the lack of protection and taking a few falls at the crux, I decided not to lead the pitch at all.
To approach Toothsheaf Transfusion, go uphill on the West Ridge just past the V-slot of Verschneidung. Climb Clear-a-Sill or Verschneidung to the strange looking pine tree. From there, either climb Toothsheaf (wandering up the overhanging face above, between the V-slot and Ghetto Blaster/White Rabbit (the dihedrals to the left) or climb one of the other routes to set a toprope.
The crux of this route comes after a section of large moves between large holds and consists of moving to the right from slopers under an overhang, onto slopers above the overhang. A fall from this position would likely result in a significant injury. Continue up and left to the rap above Ghetto Blaster.
To descend, rap Ghetto Blaster to the tree, then from the tree down to the first ledge, then scramble off.
To approach Toothsheaf Transfusion, go uphill on the West Ridge just past the V-slot of Verschneidung. Climb Clear-a-Sill or Verschneidung to the strange looking pine tree. From there, either climb Toothsheaf (wandering up the overhanging face above, between the V-slot and Ghetto Blaster/White Rabbit (the dihedrals to the left) or climb one of the other routes to set a toprope.
The crux of this route comes after a section of large moves between large holds and consists of moving to the right from slopers under an overhang, onto slopers above the overhang. A fall from this position would likely result in a significant injury. Continue up and left to the rap above Ghetto Blaster.
To descend, rap Ghetto Blaster to the tree, then from the tree down to the first ledge, then scramble off.
Protection
The protection did not seem not very good and there are ledges that could cause serious injury. This pitch is debatably VS. Take an assortment of wires, cams, and tricams.
Better yet, if you don't climb 5.11X, toprope it from the anchors above Ghetto Blaster. If you don't climb 5.10X either, then climb Vershniedung to reach the summit and from there scramble to the anchor above Ghetto Blaster to hang your TR.
Better yet, if you don't climb 5.11X, toprope it from the anchors above Ghetto Blaster. If you don't climb 5.10X either, then climb Vershniedung to reach the summit and from there scramble to the anchor above Ghetto Blaster to hang your TR.
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