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Sunset North
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Unsorted Routes:

Toothpick 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robinson, '79
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 21, 2012

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Description 

Climb Stan's Crack for about 10 feet, balance your way to the right until you are below a thin crack. Fingerlock and crimp your way to a rest. Pumpy climbing on slopers leads to the top.


Location 

On the face/thin crack to the right of Stan's Crack.


Protection 

Lots of small stuff. Rap rings at the top.



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By Blake Allen Green
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Protection in order of appearance" 1 or 2 #2 c4 for the first part of Stan's, reach really high in the dihedral and sling it long (48"), a .4 c4 goes in the roof at the start of the traverse. At the end of the traverse, #1 metolius followed by #1 c4, then yellow metolius and .75 c4 get you to the top safely, a yellow wire will protect the last crux if you want it.

Watch out for a loose crimp at the start of the traverse.

Except for the start of Stan's, the whole thing climbs like a face route and all the gear placements are matched with the best holds and best stances. Go get it!