|Original:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Mekolites on May 21, 2012|
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By Blake Allen Green
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Protection in order of appearance" 1 or 2 #2 c4 for the first part of Stan's, reach really high in the dihedral and sling it long (48"), a .4 c4 goes in the roof at the start of the traverse. At the end of the traverse, #1 metolius followed by #1 c4, then yellow metolius and .75 c4 get you to the top safely, a yellow wire will protect the last crux if you want it.
Watch out for a loose crimp at the start of the traverse.
Except for the start of Stan's, the whole thing climbs like a face route and all the gear placements are matched with the best holds and best stances. Go get it!
From: Clemson, S.C.
Nov 4, 2014
|This is such a good route. Steep, great movement, and tons of exposure. Some of the above gear beta is not ideal. First, don't place any gear in Stan's Crack. As soon as you start up Stan's, make a move out right and get a good piece in the major horizontal out right. Continue straight up above this first piece and right near the edge of the arete. You can get more finger sized gear as you move up. The crack proper takes great nuts and an assortment of finger sized gear up to a .75. You don't need anything larger than that and shouldn't have to sling anything with a 48". Smaller tricams were nice unless you carry 2-3 cams in the .5 size.|