Tooth Fairy  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Craig Luebben Submitted By:  snowhazed on Mar 20, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Roberto enrolls in O-Dubya University

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Description 

Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At the end the corner starts to separate and gear would be hard to find and awkward to place- just run it about 12 feet switching to left side in and make an exciting heel hook to gain the top of the right side of the corner. Yeah!

Location 

To the right of Unbelievable

Protection 

Lots of wide stuff and believe it or not a few med-lrg nuts.

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Giulia Luebben age 9 on "Tooth Fairy" originally p...