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Tooth Fairy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
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  • Description 

    Just left of Mr. Sandman is a steep, short corner leading to a ramp and steep corner. This is Tooth Fairy. Climb the initial corner making hard moves (crux) to gain the ramp. Go right up the ramp to a steep corner. Climb steep rock up the corner past several bolts on good holds up to the anchor. Excellent and varied climbing on good rock.


    Protection 

    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



    Photos of Tooth Fairy Slideshow Add Photo
    Napster and Tooth Fairy.
    Napster and Tooth Fairy.
    Comments on Tooth Fairy Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Pretty good route. Two somewhat difficult moves with a sharp hold, then the route eased off to maybe 5.9, a sleeper for anyone who'd on-sight the bottom, which was well protected with easy clips. Flexibility and height help. I don't know what sequence went on the FA, but "belly to the bolts" it felt like hard 5.10/easy 5.11. Disclaimer given that I hardly ever sport climb, so local grades at this crag generally seemed a little easy.

    By S. Kimball
    Sep 15, 2003

    If you find this under your pillow be thankful your sweet uncle is a softy, 5.10+.SK.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Feb 28, 2004

    Clip the second bolt and thereafter the route drops to 5.8/5.9. The runouts above are on JUGS. Seems as though the bottom can be done two ways. Straight up is a reach to a jug, but the left face has some interesting stems to a big fin and is a bit more difficult. The start is a bit sharp.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 21, 2004

    Many wrong-headed grading comments again. 11c is correct -- actually a harder [crux than] the near-by 5.12s, but so bouldery and short-lived that there is no pump factor. Nice 5.10- climbing to the anchor when the business is over.

    Anyone can downgrade. Good upgrading requires real knowledge.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 28, 2004
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Wrong-headed? What's next, thought crime? Big brother comes Anon coward in the night? Do I catch your logic right that it takes right thinking to upgrade, but that if you find an easy sequence to a climb and you are in fact in the majority there, that you are somehow 'wrong headed' and mentally defective? Sheesh... 11c is hard for me and this climb was a trot. Perhaps the 5.12s nearby are overgraded too, because I on-sighted a few of them as well, FOR WARM-UPS. I guess I'm wrong headed... my head is all wrong! Can someone help me get right-headed? Fix my mental defect that allowed such easy passage of this "5.11c" climb?

    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 29, 2004

    Wrong thinking will be punished, right thinking will be as swiftly rewarded.

    I remember this climb being a little dicey at the start, but protected well....but that could be my height advantage.

    I highly recommend this climb to the 5.9 climber wanting to break into the 11s. It was fun and painless, two stars.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 24, 2004

    The start is hard, nothing else is. Traverse above the second bolt is a little nerve wracking.

    By Richard Radcliffe
    From: Louisville, CO
    Aug 26, 2007

    I agree with the above comment that the rightward traverse across the roof (after making the second clip) is a little nerve-wracking. It's not steep but the feet are thin and the handholds are tenuous. I also think that the crux of this route is easier than the crux of The Scientist (11a/b). The upper part of the climb is easier and pleasant.

    By slim
    Administrator
    Nov 13, 2010
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Did both of the starting variations, very different styles of climbing but felt fairly similar in difficulty, maybe 11a or so. Did the left hand start first, and found getting to the 3rd bolt (above on the slabby area) kind of daunting. Something about the orientation of the hands and feet that made it kind of insecure, despite the holds being pretty good. I didn't really snooze through that section. Once you get past that, the climbing is pretty fun.