Tooth Decay aka Rhythm Method
||Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 120'
|Original: ||WI5 [details]|
|FA: ||Marc Beverly, 2000|
|Page Views: ||836|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Feb 2, 2003|
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One of the best lines we climbed all weekend!
This is a really fun little pillar in the Ouray Ice Park located just downstream from the lower bridge. One hundred feet long and largely free-standing, it just begs to be climbed. Just left of it is the route Escape Clause
which can have very fragile legs to its pillar. Tooth Decay can also be somewhat fragile and sports lots of hook moves later in the season. Though vertical, it does have many foot platforms for good rests. It can sport a little awkward crux bulge about 2/3 the way up. It can be led or easily toproped. You can walk down the gully downstream to lead it. It is quite photogenic from the viewing platform just downstream.
From the water level, move up on easier ground to the right of the pillar. From the ledge about 15 feet up, move left to the pillar and find a great rest to the left. A short way up there is another terrific rest. Then, hook away to the top. Reliable ice protection may become tricky to find as it gets chopped out. Never strenuous, quite interesting, always fun, you can feel a decent pump by the end. This route is top-ropeable by even those in their first year of ice climbing. In some ways it can feel like climbing rock though I know that it is ice. Have at it! Oh yeah, beware of soaking your ropes if you rap in and pull your ropes.
Ice screws, slings to thread holes in ice.
Slings, possible a screw for a directional.
KG leading Tooth Decay, Dec. 2006.
BETA PHOTO: Tooth Decay route.
Chris, 1st year of climbing ice!
Betty Thorson, early season on Tooth Decay.
Griz working up over the bulge on Tooth Decay.
Nice smile Betty, or are you just happy you are al...
A happy climber topping out on a great line!