Tooth Decay aka Rhythm Method WI5
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | WI5 [details] |
| FA: | Marc Beverly, 2000 |
| Season: | winter |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Feb 2, 2003 |
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Chris, 1st year of climbing ice!
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Description This is a really fun little pillar in the Ouray Ice Park located just downstream from the lower bridge. One hundred feet long and largely free-standing, it just begs to be climbed. Just left of it is the route Escape Clause which can have very fragile legs to its pillar. Tooth Decay can also be somewhat fragile and sports lots of hook moves later in the season. Though vertical, it does have many foot platforms for good rests. It can sport a little awkward crux bulge about 2/3 the way up. It can be led or easily toproped. You can walk down the gully downstream to lead it. It is quite photogenic from the viewing platform just downstream.
From the water level, move up on easier ground to the R of the pillar. From the ledge about 15 feet up move L to the pillar and find a great rest to the L. A short way up there is another terrific rest. Then, hook away to the top. Reliable ice protection may become tricky to find as it gets chopped out. Never strenuous, quite interesting, always fun, you can feel a decent pump by the end. This route is top-ropeable by even those in their first year of ice climbing. In some ways it can feel like climbing rock though I know that it is ice. Have at it! Oh yeah, beware of soaking your ropes if you rap in and pull your ropes.
Protection Ice screws, slings to thread holes in ice.
Toprope Protection Slings, possible a screw for a directional.
BETA PHOTO: Tooth Decay route.
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Betty Thorson, early season on Tooth Decay.
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Nice smile Betty, or are you just happy you are al...
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KG leading Tooth Decay, Dec. 2006.
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