This route shares the same start with "Counting Sheep" on the right side of the Plotinus Wall. Climb up the first 15 feet of Counting Sheep and reach "the Tooth". Clip the bolt on the left side of the tooth and handrail up on good holds. Rock over onto the slab and climb past three bolts to "the Nail". Reach the nail and continue up a finger crack (small gear) to the anchor. Almost three stars. Excellent route with a variety of moves.
Six bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
|Comments on Tooth and Nail
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
No really hard moves, but some insecurity and continuous difficulty lead to a pretty good pump. Not a good warm up.
Pretty good. Not as good as others at the cliff. I'd repeat others first.
Rating given with pump factor in mind. I also used more friction-moves than some other routes at the cliff.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
Jan 31, 2009
This route is actually quite good, w/ a little more traffic the munge on the slab will clean up and the last few little flaky chips will get pulled off. Getting to the first bolt is easily protected w/ either small cams or wires.
|By Mark E Dixon|
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 17, 2012
Still pretty scruffy. Not a bad climb. The 'nail' is kind of cool.
|By Geoff U|
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Rock quality isn't the best - don't need any gear either - enough bolts to protect adequately.