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Unsorted Routes:

Toot 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Molly Higgins and Dan McClure, mid-70s
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Matt Tooting at Lumpy
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Description 

A one pitch finger crack with good supplemental edges. Find a steep finger crack that does not reach the ground on the wall right of the gigantic Howling at the Wind dihedral (same approach as for Fat City Crack, and a good climb to do when you come back to get your stuff after climbing that route). Traditionally, there are stacked rocks at the base of the route below the crack. Starting from the rocks, make a wild, footless, crux move to a perfect finger jam, which unfortunately is also your first good gear. I actually stick-placed (yes, placed) a nut there before starting to mitigate the good possibility of a sprained ankle or worse (the ground drops away sharply to the right)-- a devious (read: weenie) technique that is nevertheless quite common, I hear. Regardless, one encounters two more 5.10 cruxes before reaching a ledge on Pear Buttress. It is possible to continue up that or other routes, but most people rappel (75 ft.) from webbing (of cordalette length) around a flake right at the top of the route (may not be fixed, so bring some).


Protection 

Small stoppers and cams, and Friends #s 2-3 up high.



Photos of Toot Slideshow Add Photo
The bottom nut in the photo is the one that can be placed with a stick. It is also possble to place a nut in the first finger jam at the center very bottom of the photo, but that may interfere with the hold.
BETA PHOTO: The bottom nut in the photo is the one that can be...
Step off the blocks down and left from Brad using a very good bucket/jam for the left hand and one thin edge for the right foot. <br /> <br />Using the blocks is legitimate, apparently, since they are mentioned in my 1980 Chip Salaun/Scott Kimball Thath-AA-AI-ATAH Lumpy guide. In that guide they say to use "a little cheater stone", so perhaps the cheater rock pile has grown over the years. <br /> <br />Has anyone not super tall done this without using the rock pile?
Step off the blocks down and left from Brad using ...
A couple more moves to reach the horizontals and the end of the crux section. Brad said the right hand pinkie down jam really hurt.
A couple more moves to reach the horizontals and t...
A perhaps unusual way to do the crux with the right foot way down and right jammed in the crack.
A perhaps unusual way to do the crux with the righ...
Ray Rice and Jay Dufresne on Toot. 10-5-03
Ray Rice and Jay Dufresne on Toot. 10-5-03
Comments on Toot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Collins
Jul 27, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I'm embarresed to admit that I too pre-placed the first nut (but didn't clip the rope) when I climbed this. I wish I hadn't because the moves off the deck aren't that hard, but the landing sucks. It sounds like this is standard practice for this route, and there is a quiver of sticks at the base that serve this purpose.An excellent, sustained, short climb that would be 3 stars if it were longer.

Gillet guide has this as 10c. It felt a bit easier than Outlander, which is benchmark hard-10c.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2004

See the second photo below for historical info and a question about the "cheater" rocks.

By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This is a really fun route if you're solid at 5.10. The start is hard but definitely felt like the crux to me.

By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2009

Save your ankles... stick place the nut from the ground. Your fingers will be blocking the placement once you do the move... Placing the nut from the ground but not clipping a draw or the rope to it would be a fine compromise IMO.
I found this route to be hard because it is quite pumpy (I suck at pumpy climbing!). I thought some of the pro placements were not immediately obvious (though they are excellent), so I got quite pumped placing and had to hang.

By climberKJ
From: Holderness, NH
Jul 25, 2009

I also had the nut pre-placed for me, however I was too short to reach the solid finger jam on the left from the stack of rocks. Instead I started at the bottom and traversed over to get it. Climbing it this way added a few more stout moves, but it was super fun and rewarding. I recommend it.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Place a smaller nut deep down in the first placement and it's not a problem interfering with the fingers. Set it well so it won't walk out. Also, the first hold is much better fore the left hand middle-ring-pinkey combo than if you try to get the index finger in.

We also replaced the top-anchor for this one today with new webbing and a rapid. It is very solid, but presently is just one loop. So the next person up there should consider backing it up.

It is VERY easy to back up for a belay with a cordalette.

PS- This is a very fun route for no longer than it is (55') and packs a good punch.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 5, 2010

Best to use the pin and stopper anchor atop the second pitch of Pear Buttress. This is a permanent anchor with chains to rap off of. One sixty meter rope will easily make it to the base of Toot. Using the Pear Buttress anchor will keep the ratty slings and tat to a minimum.