Toot 

I'm embarresed to admit that I too pre-placed the first nut (but didn't clip the rope) when I climbed this. I wish I hadn't because the moves off the deck aren't that hard, but the landing sucks. It sounds like this is standard practice for this route, and there is a quiver of sticks at the base that serve this purpose.An excellent, sustained, short climb that would be 3 stars if it were longer.

Gillet guide has this as 10c. It felt a bit easier than Outlander, which is benchmark hard-10c.

See the second photo below for historical info and a question about the "cheater" rocks.

This is a really fun route if you're solid at 5.10. The start is hard but definitely felt like the crux to me.

Save your ankles... stick place the nut from the ground. Your fingers will be blocking the placement once you do the move... Placing the nut from the ground but not clipping a draw or the rope to it would be a fine compromise IMO.
I found this route to be hard because it is quite pumpy (I suck at pumpy climbing!). I thought some of the pro placements were not immediately obvious (though they are excellent), so I got quite pumped placing and had to hang.

I also had the nut pre-placed for me, however I was too short to reach the solid finger jam on the left from the stack of rocks. Instead I started at the bottom and traversed over to get it. Climbing it this way added a few more stout moves, but it was super fun and rewarding. I recommend it.

Place a smaller nut deep down in the first placement and it's not a problem interfering with the fingers. Set it well so it won't walk out. Also, the first hold is much better fore the left hand middle-ring-pinkey combo than if you try to get the index finger in.

We also replaced the top-anchor for this one today with new webbing and a rapid. It is very solid, but presently is just one loop. So the next person up there should consider backing it up.

It is VERY easy to back up for a belay with a cordalette.

PS- This is a very fun route for no longer than it is (55') and packs a good punch.

Best to use the pin and stopper anchor atop the second pitch of Pear Buttress. This is a permanent anchor with chains to rap off of. One sixty meter rope will easily make it to the base of Toot. Using the Pear Buttress anchor will keep the ratty slings and tat to a minimum.