|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Shawn P. Tracy on Nov 26, 2007|
|Comments on Tool Boy||Add Comment|
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 11, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
optional start: climb five feet up the flake and hand traverse out the obvious horizontal crack. after ten feet or so you'll come to a huge jug/flake (takes pro). from here, make a big move up and right to the crack system.
no need to add a bolt. the move from the pedestal to the crack can be protected with a purple or a silver tcu. once on the crack, you can also immediately plug in a yellow, or orange tcu.
fun climb. i wish the main crack system went on a hundred feet longer!! :)
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
#2 C4 for initial traverse
A nut and/or #1 C3 to protect move into crack,
A nut and/or #2 C3 for 1st move in crack
C4 0.75 to 3 for the crack
I found the traverse to the crack to be not too hard (but I'm 6'2"), The runout from the crack to the anchors was a bit heady for me, but I slung the top of the flake where it meets the wall. Must do route, especially if you're waiting in line for Sigma.