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Unsorted Routes:

Too! 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 410'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Bissel, Matt Esson, Steve LaPorta, 1993
Page Views: 3,872
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Too! (first pitch).
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Too! is a very strange route, and quite out of place at Clear Creek. It contains 3 good pitches (out of 4) and some impressive exposure, but the everpresent lichen and loose rock subtract from this otherwise excellent climb.

P1. A multitude of first pitches are possible, but the best (and most in keeping with the difficulty of the rest of the climb) is the farthest right bolted pitch on the base of the formation. A few difficult slab moves at mid height provide the crux here, and a comfortable belay is reached after ~120 feet. 5.10d, 6 bolts.

P2. The second pitch is basically slabby grunge - 5.4X. Carefully work your way up to the obvious headwall, where you'll find a 2 bolt anchor after about 130 feet. 5.4, 1 bolt.

P3. The third pitch tackles this headwall and is arguably the best on the route, though only about 80 feet long. 5.11c, 10 bolts.

P4. The final pitch begins with a hairy traverse on fragile rock past a pin to a line of bolts heading up and right out a steep block. The first 50 feet are 5.10, and the final moves of 5.12 (which are very out of place for the route) can be easily aided. 5.12a, 10 bolts.

Descend by making 3 double-rope rappels, but exercise EXTREME CAUTION when pulling ropes, as there is loose rock in spades. Helmets highly recommended.


Protection 

15 quickdraws and 2 ropes are recommended, though creative rappelling might allow for a single rope descent. Fully bolted.



Photos of Too! Slideshow Add Photo
1. Natural Selection, 11a/b. <br />2. The Nordwand, 11b/c. <br />3. Too!, 12a. <br />4. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11b/c. <br />5. Eiger Direct, 11d. <br />6. First Impressions, 9+. <br />7. Footloose, 10a.
BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b.
2. The Nordwand, 11b/...
Hitting the "summit". <br />Just zoom in and you will see Dane and me on the last pitch.
Hitting the "summit".
Just zoom in and you will se...
Ben Colter on Too! (first pitch).
Ben Colter on Too! (first pitch).
Too!
Too!
Comments on Too! Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 26, 2013
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 24, 2001

The first pitch (10c ish, #3 in the picture) is a blast. There are some holds here that makes it seem like a gym climb--huge flakes, horns, really incut pockets, etc. A pretty juggy and easy haul through the roof IMO.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Great route! 3rd pitch is well worth the 2nd. Great rock, good moves. It is probably easier than the 1st (my error on the 1st). The 1st seemed tricky for 10c unless you are a slab master (my error on the 1st). 11a? 10c for the 3rd.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 12, 2002

This is an excellent route too rope solo. I soloed it recently and thought it a great excercise in mixed free/aid while soloing. I took some hooks and small gear, but ended up free climbing between all of the bolts- which was a little scary on a clove! Anyway it made for good practice mixing things up. One thing- you have to climb up and tie off the first couple of bolts for your anchor.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 29, 2003

Leo- I think the first pitch that you did is Natural Selection (farthest right route), which I think has a .11 crux. 'Too' proper starts as one of those juggy 5.10s to the left of NS and keeps going for several more clips to the ledge.

Between the last 2 bolts on the crux pitch can be climbed directly through the bolt line, instead of going left 5 feet, up 2 feet and back right 5 feet, though a little harder. I do some kind of hand foot match to very small crimp way up and right. The nuts on the cold shuts tend to loosen for some reason, which is a little spooky when you go to clip a bolt with the nut hanging on by a few threads.

By TBD
Jun 23, 2003

The third pitch is definitely the best in my opinion, Rolofsons's guide gives it 11c, which seems appropriate considering the other climbs at the crag. The second pitch has a bolt at the 5.5 "crux", wouldn't quite give it an "x" rating. For the last pitch, there is a bolt between the belay anchors and the line of bolts up the face. No need to clip the pin, just stay on the narrow ledge below where you would be to clip the pin, traverse to the bolt and pull a fun mantle move to the ledge above. Also, the 12a rating may be a bit of a sandbag, at least it seemed harder than that to me.

Overall, this is a really fun route, cool exposure, and there isn't as much loose rock as I had expected. Just use good judgement and you'll have no problem.

By DUCKMAN
Jul 22, 2003

The 5.10d first pitch is a good warm up for what is "too!" come. The 5.4 second pitch is self explanatory. I agree the third pitch is the best. A lot of crimpy finger holds up the steep 5.11c slab. However there is a lot of lichen on this pitch, which is not very fen to climb with. There is one good ledge to rest on about halfway. The final pitch has a few sketchy moves including a 5.11d move just before the 5.12a crux. Once at the top a great view and a good feeling of satisfaction of climbing the tallest multi-pitch climb in Clear Creek Canyon!

By micah stocker
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

[Sick route. The third pitch is kick ass. It reminds me a lot of the Yellow Spur. The 4th pitch is strange. Big moves to not so good holds. Either the 11d is easier than 11d, or the 12a is sandbagged. I'll let you be the judge. It just felt stiff for 12a. Also, if more people climbed this route, there wouldn't be as much traffic in the canyon. Major loose rock on the last pitch. However, the rest are pretty clean. Give this thing a try. Major air. If this route were in Eldo, it would be a world class route. Too cool.]

By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Jun 24, 2004

If "nice 5.11 crimps on slab" doesn't sound like a bowlful o' fun, the first 50ft pitch is sweet and juggy. At a nice 10c or d, it's just as good as P1 of Norwand. BUT I'm sure the rest is cool too.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 1, 2005

12a my arse. Did a hold break? Compared to other CCC 12a's this thing is a tad stiff, eh? Pretty cool f-ing route, fun to start with Natural Selection, then 2 more good ones to the top. Was gripped throughout that we'd send down a monster chunk of choss and 1. sink a kayak in the creek. 2. chop off someone's head as they top out on one of the many fun 1-pitch routes below. 3. cause a 10 car pileup/ massive ugly lawsuit. Dohh. Pretty clean, turns out. SO friggin many of those bolts are nasty dangling spinners, however. Caution. Enjoy.

Chris

By sean connors
Jul 27, 2005

I climbed all of [Too!] and it was f...ing awesome. Although when I was following the third pitch (.11c slab) I pulled off a huge flake. I bashed it with my palm and it seemed bomber. Guess not. Also on the last pitch, the guide said that there is a horn that you can sling. Well, when I girth hitched it, I went to wedge the sling in the crack and gave it a tug. Goodbye horn! Sorry! So, if you fall, have fun on the [pendulum] swing. The horn is still up [there], so that way you could spite the asshole who broke it when you climb it. Great route with cool exposure.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005

The first pitch of this (10c) is probably the most fun at Little Eiger. There is a nice pinch hold, a finger-crack sidepull, and before the anchors, a dyno (or long reach) from a big jug and exposed position to a mantel.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008

Agreed, first pitch of "too" is one of the best on the wall. The crux for me was the exposed pinch on the face (felt balancy but fun). The moves at the top feel D-ish because of the pump, but with the right sequence, any one can pull it.

By blakeherrington
Jun 7, 2009

This route is a classic. A couple thoughts:

It can be rapped with one 60 rope.

P1 - Can climb Nordwand or Too, both are great, both around 35m.

P2 - If comfortable soloing solid 5.4, it might be safer to unrope for this pitch, and climb with the rope coiled up. Several ledges with loose gravel and blocks exist. Watch your rope from knocking this off. There is a single bolt low on this pitch, then a 2-bolt anchor at the base of the steep wall, or a second 2-bolt anchor slightly higher. It works best to belay as high as possible.

P3 - Amazing pitch, sustained, technical, quality. Mid 5.11

P4 - Long runner on bolt #1. The first ~7 bolts go through steep and juggy sustained climbing (.11d) to a no-hands rest ledge, 30' from the top. The last bolt on this sustained section is clipped from a down-pointing flake, which flexes and is going to break off soon. The fall is clean if/when it rips and other holds exist. As others have said, the "12a" crux move left is very stout for the grade, especially without long arms.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The third pitch is stellar like everyone has said. It felt 11b or c. not too much lichen and loose stuff, the entire route seems pretty clean. The fourth pitch is also stellar with overhanging 11+ up to the ledge. I have a pretty good reach, and the move left is still way way out there. Probably 12b. With a bit of traversing, we made it down with one 70m rope in 4 raps. Killer after-work, shady, multi-pitch 12 action!

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 16, 2009

Despite what appears to be not too much loose rock on Too!, climbing this route when there are dozens of people below on what has become one of the most popular areas in CCC is probably not a good idea. As noted by other climbers, things continue to break and would likely hit someone below. The rock in CCC just isn't all that solid. Perhaps a weekday morning would be the best time to do this one. Personally, if I was at the Little Eiger and I saw someone go up Too! I would leave.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 3, 2009

As predicted, people climbing this route when there were a whole bunch of climbers below proved hazardous. Yesterday, when two rocket scientists decided to climb up, then rappel back thru 5 pitches of choss right above a whole crowd of people they pulled down an entire tree and associated rocks from two pitches up, narrowly missing everyone below. It was a miracle that no one was killed. Perhaps this route should be renamed "Don't" or even better yet "Chopped".

By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Sep 3, 2009

I was there too! Todd is absolutely right. It is a highly dangerous situation at the base of LE if a party is on this route. It was so loud I thought a person had decked. If the guy who was below the route a few minutes beforehand was still there, he probably would have been killed. Beyond scary.

By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Awesome route!

On P1 I actually took the 11b variation accidently. It proved to be awesome with an interesting move. The second pitch is nothing special. The mental crux for the route. I missed the bolt.

P3 was the best. Sustained 5.11 moves with the 11c or so mantle crux.

P4 was way harder than "5.12a". The approach to the crux was 11d and was sweet. Fun climbing. Some hold must of broke off, because the crux is killer.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2011

So, I'm not even sure where to enter this comment, but I highly recommend the first pitch of this route for a good 10d. Personally, I thought it was more like 11a on the overhang. But it is well worth it for a short, juggy, gym-like pitch.

By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Got on the route today, Started on the route just to the right of Too!, for the first pitch because Too! was busy. Fun moves challenging, 2nd pitch, mentally challenging but really a terd. Third pitch was really dirty but was AMAZING!!! I loved the sustained technical climbing, SO MUCH FUN! Only one or two holds that were larger than half a pad. Bailed before the last pitch, one of us was falling asleep, I was gassed from the third, have to come back and do it again to the top some day.

By gordwah
From: colorado
Jul 29, 2011

First pitch is the best 5.10 I've ever done! Jougie!

By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

P3 is really fun - a fair amount of decent holds (bigger than half pad - through crux section, maybe not). Lichens didn't reduce friction though. P4 was good fun - all moves ~11c/d except for the two-three move crux sequence that is not 12a. Surprisingly minimal loose rock - didn't break off anything, which is fortunate as some not-so-smart climbers decided to set up directly below us as we were on P3 and didn't even wear helmets, though they did have them sitting on the ground when we got back. Seriously, not intelligent, which was frustrating as we started this climb at 8:30am on a Wednesday figuring that was a safe bet, but nope... the first group to get there after us goes straight to the 9s below us :(

By g.miller
Apr 7, 2013

Fun route! If you are knocking rocks off, you're doing something wrong. Seemed pretty clean and well-protected. The 5.11 slab is very fun and will leave you feeling for holds, but they are all there. The last pitch is thoughtful and exposed, but I felt that the climbing after the hand traverse to the ledge right below the crux, wasn't any harder than hard 5.10... the crux itself is long reaches with good holds, then thin and pumpy.

By kjdetlor
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 26, 2013

This route is best climbed by starting on Nordwand (5.11) as the first pitch, definitely agree that the 3rd pitch was the best!