Too Secret to Find 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Pete Charkin, Alan Roberts & Bruce Howatt 1985 |
| Season: | Fall, Spring |
| Submitted By: | Graham Roff on Apr 10, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: The crack up the center, with "Balance Due" to the...
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Description The most obvious line on this formation, this is a fun route with the crux at the top.
Climb up an easy hand crack then pull through on solid face holds to the slighly off-width trough. Struggle through the pod as the route gets harder and harder until a nice jug presents itself just over the roof (5.10b).
Pull the overhang on big holds to easier terrain to the top.
Protection Pro is excellent up the entire route. Nuts and cams in the .5" to 3" range. Gear anchor (shared with "Balance Due") with an easy walk-off to the climber's left.
hillary reaching the jug at the crux
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| Comments on Too Secret to Find |
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By Taryn
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 19, 2007
| Very fun route. The moves into and over the overhang are great. There is a rap anchor up top, which you can use for a number of climbs on this wall. |
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Does anybody know what was up with the old guidebook rating of 10d? did something fall off revealing a bigger hold? a typo? felt soft even for 10b. |
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Apr 20, 2011
| I think the '92 guide has a typo in the text because the photo has the crux marked properly as "10b". |
By Trad Nanny
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.10-
| This is the line to do on this formation, good gear all the way to a juggy finish. I also felt it was a bit soft for 10b. |
By Brad Leneis
Mar 23, 2012
| One of the longer continuous cracks that I know of in J-Tree -- definitely worth the short-ish but steep scramble up the gully. |
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