Too Much Too Soon (AKA: Freedom) 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Tim Davis, 7/08 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Faces North/NorthWest |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Jul 6, 2008 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A good climb that starts off moderate... and stays that way. Ascend the crack past some slabby 5.7 moves on sloper feet and get a piece or two of gear in whenever you can. As the climb rises up on the line, you pass a 3-foot tall dwarfed pine after just a few meters, and then a tiny sampling after a dozen meters or so. As you progress the gear becomes more plentiful and straight-forward. The crux is where the crack turns more vertical in a dark section of rock and you can jam or protect within the cracks contained inside an Off-Width looking crack. jam and lay-back the surprisingly good section and continue to the top. Continue eastward along the top to a large hueco and belay off of a stopper and some medium cams, and add a long runner to the fixed rap above "Too Little Too Late" if so desired.
Location Towards the right hand end of the West Face of the crag, see a crack that starts from the ground and rises up and left at a shallow angle, following a shallow ramp-like line and cracks past a small pine (3') and then even smaller pine (2') and then out and up to a vertical section in dark clean rock that looks wide, but takes great jams and cams... and then follow the system to the top.
Protection A full set of nuts and cams up to 3.5" or 4" and including a few extra 2-3" cams. Protection is not always present or available initially, as is often the case on low angle climbing, but it is frequent and good enough to keep the route safe. Take a lot of 2' slings and hang onto some of them for the end- don't place 'Too Much Too Soon' and end up with rope drag.
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