|Teen Queens' Crag
Too Much Too Soon (AKA: Freedom)
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 140'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Tim Davis, 7/08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces North/NorthWest|
|Page Views: ||294|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jul 6, 2008|
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A good climb that starts off moderate... and stays that way. Ascend the crack past some slabby 5.7 moves on sloper feet and get a piece or two of gear in whenever you can. As the climb rises up on the line, you pass a 3-foot tall dwarfed pine after just a few meters, and then a tiny sampling after a dozen meters or so. As you progress the gear becomes more plentiful and straight-forward. The crux is where the crack turns more vertical in a dark section of rock and you can jam or protect within the cracks contained inside an Off-Width looking crack. jam and lay-back the surprisingly good section and continue to the top. Continue eastward along the top to a large hueco and belay off of a stopper and some medium cams, and add a long runner to the fixed rap above "Too Little Too Late" if so desired.
Towards the right hand end of the West Face of the crag, see a crack that starts from the ground and rises up and left at a shallow angle, following a shallow ramp-like line and cracks past a small pine (3') and then even smaller pine (2') and then out and up to a vertical section in dark clean rock that looks wide, but takes great jams and cams... and then follow the system to the top.
A full set of nuts and cams up to 3.5" or 4" and including a few extra 2-3" cams. Protection is not always present or available initially, as is often the case on low angle climbing, but it is frequent and good enough to keep the route safe. Take a lot of 2' slings and hang onto some of them for the end- don't place 'Too Much Too Soon' and end up with rope drag.
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