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Too Much Testosterone 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Stoger 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: West facing, 7000 feet elevation
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: bheller on Jul 1, 2009
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Description 

TMT shares the start with Testosterone Test, but at the undercling diagonalling horizontal crack below the knife blade on TT, TMT traverses left on all natural gear to the patina'd overhanging arete. The first crux establishes one on the arete. Cams in horizontals protect the climbing all the way to the top, where TMT traverses back right to share the TT anchors. TMT climbs out a bouldery roof about 20 feet left of the final TT roof, staying to the left of a bolt on an old forgotten Bill Boyle route. Pulling this bulge is route's crux-good cams in horizontals 10 feet below you. Fun climbing and a good challenge, despite the folly of skipping perfectly good bolts. One of the only routes I know of like it at the City of Rocks.


Location 

Shares the start with Testosterone Test. Look for the bolt up high that protects the right diagonally trending underclings. lower from chains-60 meter rope.


Protection 

A true ascent of TMT is completed on all natural gear. Even the starting bolt of TT for the 10,000 calorie mantle can be skipped and adequately protected by a micro nut in a pod just left of the bolt. Doubles on cams to 1 inch with runners, and a micro-nut for the start.



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