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Beginner's Luck S 
First Blood T 
Learning Curve S 
Passing the Baton S 
Practice Run S 
Thunder T 
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep S 
Whole Lotta Sober T 

Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Perkins
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Oct 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Starting the route at the first bolt.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fine little climb is just to the right of Whole Lotta Sober. Climb up through two small roofs with the crux at the second roof. The rock is well featured and the climbing is mostly easier than 5.9 with a short crux.

Location 

This is the furthest left line of bolts on the wall. It starts to the right of some jumbled blocks at the base. Descend from a two bolt anchor at the top.

Protection 

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep Slideshow Add Photo
Looks like the gear was good, but now you can be less Sober and just clip it up.
Looks like the gear was good, but now you can be l...

Comments on Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep Add Comment
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb was fitted with bolts summer of 2010. FA Chris Perkins. Indeed it can be lead via trad, but the end of the climb is pretty run out after pulling the roof, and the wall in general needed more beginner routes.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Actually, I was thinking about this. "Whole Lotta Sober" is the line _just_ left of this line. It is still trad and pulls through the weakeness in the roof. The crux is pulling onto the blank-ish face above the hang. Good pro at the crux. "First Blood" pulls the roof further left of this.

This line was bolted after Whole Lotta Sober and is yet to be named. I have the FA on both lines, and have not thought of a name yet. Tod's son did the SA. It's definitely 5.7 and sports a giant "surprise" under the lower overhang. I'm leaning towards "Too much nooky, not enough sleep".

cheers.
-chris
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2012

Fun climb. We had a newer climber with us, and she had trouble on the routes to the right (at the roof section of each one). This one she did.