Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Graveside Matter Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dementor's Kiss S 
Faceplant S 
Ghost Rider S 
Lap Dance S 
Mulato S 
Pass Through S 
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra S 

Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pete Van Slooten
Page Views: 2,005
Submitted By: ZachBradford on May 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo- To Much Cock Not Enough Lycra

Description 

Commonly know as "Too much chalk not enough lycra".
Route starts on a strange and surprisingly delicate traverse through two bolts. You then move straight up the face. The crux of the route is found on the bulge right at the beginning. Once you move over the bulge you continue up a beautiful vertical face on edges with a pocket or two thrown in the mix. finishes with a short slab run to the chains. One of the best routes for the grade in Cedar Canyon.

Location 

The route is found up and left of the graveside matter wall slab. Start the traverse by scrambling up to the left nearly to the corner until you can easily gain access the ledge you will traverse.

Protection 

Bolts to Rap anchors


Comments on Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 6, 2010

Best route name. Ever.
By ZachBradford
May 11, 2010

I felt it was solid .12a but it is probably important to note the crux bulge must be done completely different by a short individual as compared to someone tall. A tall climber can reach an upper hold off of decent hold while a short climber must use "wizard beta" involving a bunchy heel-hook and slopers to get to the hold.

What Pete said about the grade.

"When I bolted it, I rated it 11c/d but I am tall and had the moves dialed from bolting it, I guess .12a is a good overall rating for someone walking up to it sight unseen."
By Kalon
From: St. George, Utah
May 16, 2014

When it says up and left of the graveside matter wall, it means up and RIGHT. so like continuing right after the main wall, you pass a pillar with 2 routes on it (one is the 5.12a Death to Smoochie) and continue like you're going to the upper tier. But instead of going left to the upper tier you go right over to the lone climb that starts with a traverse. the route runs just left of the tinny tree growing out of the wall about 30 feet up. It's right above and left of the slab climbs there.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!