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Supercrack Buttress
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Too Much Cake 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 1,146
Submitted By: Mike Sokoloff on Mar 17, 2002
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bring #6!! use long sling. and pack a lunch.

Description 

This route is about 250 feet to the right of Supercrack. You can't miss the obvious OW that starts from a pedestal and is the start of the route. A pretty burly route in general. It starts off in an OW which is very conducive to laybacking. A #5 Camalot makes this section tolerable. Where the OW constricts to thin crack there is a notch which the rope runs directly over and threatens to bind up the rope. Avoid this by placing a #0 TCU there to keep the rope out of the crack. After that, start laybacking and slamming the 1.5 Friends. Don't get tunnel vision, there are rests. Get psyched for the roof at the finish. It's burly but all there.


Protection 

Many, many #0.75 Camalots or 1.5 Friends (no fewer than 10). One #5 Camalot for the OW/layback start. One set of TCUs should suffice for the low thin-crack section.



Photos of Too Much Cake Slideshow Add Photo
fun rest before the biz! rest up and go!!!
fun rest before the biz! rest up and go!!!
red metolius anybody?
red metolius anybody?
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By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Use a 6 friend with a QD and a #4 in the high horizontal to avoid pinch and protect oneself whilst the crack is thin ! Oh how crisp and clean is this gem. # 1 1/2 friends for the meat. 2 ea. on either side of that.