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Too Many Tantrums T 
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Y2K T 

Too Many Tantrums 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Francis Baker and Rex Parker on Labor Day '06
New Route: Yes
Season: almost any
Page Views: 1,355
Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Sep 7, 2006

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Me building an anchor in the cleft. I didn't pick ...

Description 

The crack system 10' left of Splitting Hares. There are several options that will get you to a cleft about 75' off the ground. Build a belay in the cleft. Follow the crack system up to the roof. I did not pull the roof but stayed just below it and traversed right on the horizontals. This kept all the climbing at 5.7. Rappel with two ropes from top of Next Century.

Location 

On the NE side of Mescalito between Y2K and Next Century.

Protection 

A standard trad rack.


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By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Nov 7, 2008

I just went back and did this route for the second time. Some things to mention.
1 I started as per "Splitting Hares" in the corner and went left over the bush,on pockets and cracks, to the cleft 5.8.
2 My partner led the second pitch and belayed on the ledge 75' 5.7
3 I led a third pitch up to the roof and right to the anchor. 5.7+
4 We cleaned a shoe box sized rock and a party on the route after us broke off a few small holds...wear a helmet!
By Brent Butcher
Nov 18, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you pull the roof, I call it a 5.9- or 5.8+
By Marius
Dec 1, 2011

The quality of the rock is poor which makes the climb quite dangerous. Pulling the small roof 5.8+ is a better idea as the second is better protected that traversing under roof (as per guide book). I would not come back and do it again.
By Stone Nude
Dec 3, 2011

It's an ok route for locals. I followed the line pictured in Handren's guide, wide gear pretty helpful-moves are AWKWARD. The Splitting Hares start is probably faster+less gear intensive; both routes are decent but not classics. I thought there were some thin, sustained moves in the corner that didn't feel like 5.7 to me, maybe consistend with Black Dagger sandbaggish rating if that's what was intended. 5.8ish, plenty of thin gear so bring lots of slings. The second pitch is pretty long; I elected to belay on a comfy ledge where the corner ended, then belay a short pitch over to the bolted anchors. That seemed best to me, rope drag would've been miserable otherwise.
By Brent Butcher
Feb 9, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To add on to what Killis said: Rope Drag is horrendous near the top of the second pitch. Extend, extend, extend, or setup an anchor halfway up the second pitch on a small corner. Small gear but plenty of chickenheads to wrap.