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Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cres Snyder, John Baker, Joe Shiefman
Page Views: 2,356
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Dillon getting it dialed for the redpoint.

Description 

Originally envisioned by Tony Lusk and drilled on aid I think. Eventually others did a ton of work to clean and solidify the route and did the first redpoint. This thing is super steep on the bottom 20 feet then it is "not so steep" but the moves through here might thwart you.

Location 

Down the hill about two thirds of the way to the toe of the rock. It is the steepest start you will find. It starts just right of the Delt Melt crack/flake which leads to a dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marty losing the fight against gravity on the not ...
Marty losing the fight against gravity on the not ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snyderman workin' it.
Snyderman workin' it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the start of the route.  Damn steep if y...
BETA PHOTO: Just past the start of the route. Damn steep if y...
Rock Climbing Photo: JB failing to redpoint back in 2000.
JB failing to redpoint back in 2000.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cres... early attempt on Cres-sent (around summer ...
Cres... early attempt on Cres-sent (around summer ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A determined Eric Deschamps moves through the roof...
A determined Eric Deschamps moves through the roof...

Comments on Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 1, 2016
By JoeS
Feb 11, 2010

Great route. Really don't understand the bomb rating given by the one person.
By JesseJ
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Super fun, some sharp bits, but in your face from the first hold.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 27, 2011

Super fun! almost got the onsight. Botched the crux move beta. Here is how I did it.

By Dominic Weinstock
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Excellent route! Def use the beta that Pat Mac does in his video down low......I started off using some whack heel hook beta that left me with a limp for a week :)
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 24, 2014

Tightened bolts 1 and 3 with a wrench and lock-tite.
By jbak
Jun 25, 2014

John... thx for your efforts. Are there still chain-draws on Cres-sent ? It doesn't need any, and Cres and I never put any on.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 26, 2014

Yup, 3 chain draws on bolts 2 through 4.
By jbak
Jun 26, 2014

I'd be happy to see them gone. I think I speak for Cres too.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 27, 2014

Tony Lusk says yes to the chains!
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2014

While the chains are certainly not necessary, they make cleaning the line much easier. Hence I would like to see them remain.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 28, 2014

Me too! Much less annoying than someones draws hanging there for weeks and weeks.
By EWod
Jun 7, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Added leaver's at the top for ease of cleaning.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2015

Chaindraws on bolts 3 & 4 have been removed. Setting the draws and cleaning the route is now more of a hassle. While they may not have been there originally they were certainly handy. The route and area already has glue and chaindraws. Can they be restored?

Thanks for the quicklinks Eric! Lazy climbers like myself applaud your efforts.
By Luke Bertelsen
Jun 27, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I have some ClimbTech cable draws I'm willing to donate if anyone is headed back out soon.

Let me know.
By jbak
Jun 27, 2015

I think it should be cres's call.
By Luke Bertelsen
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Don't believe the hype! This route is sharp.

Also, chain draws/ fixed draws would be awesome on this route. Not sure why it doesn't need any..?
By jbak
Jun 27, 2016

Hi Luke....... the FAist (Cres) almost never comes on this site, so I will attempt to speak for him. He doesn't like over-decorated crags. From the perspective of a hiker/tourist, cable-draws and chains are the most unsightly insults we inflict on crags. Bolts are less visible, glue still less. AFAIC it should be his call.

This route can be cleaned pretty easily if draws are removed in the correct order. It takes a bit of thought to figure out the correct order, but it works.
By Luke Bertelsen
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

John, it's likely I have spent too much time in Rilfe and Maple Canyon and have become lazy. I just felt like since the neighbor climb has chain draws and this is clearly a crag favorite it would benefit from the draws in steep terrain....just voicing my opinion.

We had this place all to ourselves yesterday and stayed out the rain in the overhung terrain. In between burns we rebuilt two of the belay platforms that needed a little love. This is a great little crag.
By jbak
Jun 27, 2016

I certainly respect your opinion Luke. I was just trying to relay the feelings of the FA.

It's easy to be lazy. Cable/chain draws are the ultimate in low-commitment climbing, and lots of people really like them. God knows I've hung quite a few of them, but I'm still of 2 minds about them. I feel like minimizing their use at crags that regular non-climbing hikers sometimes visit. And believe it or not, I've seen hikers at both The Steep and Delta. There are often hikers near The Orifice, but they can't get into a position to see the chains.

BTW I now use ClimbTech cable-draws with steel biners because they last way longer and are somewhat less visible. I've even swapped out some of my old chain-draws at the Helmet.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 30, 2016

Any data to support the claim that cable draws last longer than chain draws. I have never heard of a chain draw wearing out but I have read about cable draws fraying. A couple of chain draws would be nice.

Jbak why don't you ask Cres if he cares, I bet he doesn't.
By jbak
Jul 1, 2016

Hey Eric... long time !

Last time I discussed the route with Cres (2-3 years ago ?) he cared. Does he care __today__ ?? I don't know.

As far as maintenance goes, I'm really refering to steel vs aluminum BINERS, not chain vs cable. When I used to make chain-draws, I used aluminum biners. Now I buy ClimbTech and they come with steel biners. And I know you know that steel has much better abrasion resistance. Maybe you used steel biners all along.

A note for the newbish... one drawback of fixed draws is that you are less likely to notice loose nuts/hangers when clipping a fixed draw. Worth remembering. I've encountered quite a few loose nuts lately.

Speaking of nuts... I was at Ireland recently and some young kid looked at me and said "Are you climbing Ireland !!??" And I thought "is there a route here named Ireland ? -- I don't think so". Then I realized that what he meant to say is "What's this old guy doing at this crag ??". LOL.

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