Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney T 
Crown of Thorns T 
Fish Out of Water 
Holy Grail S 
Plumb, The T 
Right of Round the Corner T 
Round the Corner T 
Shroud, The T 
Sneaky 1 T 
Spectre T 
Three Tiers T 
Tony's Nightmare T 
Tres Amigos T 
Unnamed Gully T 
Upper Tiers T 
Unsorted Routes:

Tony's Nightmare 


Type:  Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original: WI3-4 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter, low snow
Page Views: 4,153
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dave Hoven cruising Tony's.


Just west of The Shroud is another gully. This is Tony's Nightmare. Ever wonder who was Tony? Why did he have a nightmare?

If you belay it, there could be a pitch of easier ice lower. Maybe 30-60 feet? Maybe WI 2 to 2+.

The main attraction here is a good pitch of WI3-4 ice above for 50-80 feet. This is really fun but can be wet. In good conditions, it might make a good first WI4 lead. In really fat conditions, it might be WI3.

There is more ice above, but it looks fairly low angle. According to Rob Griz, it is WI2- and 100', and trees with old tat and rings abound to rap from.

Beware of avalanche conditions. Expect an aerobic approach.



Photos of Tony's Nightmare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clear Cutn Bear Shootn Man Dingo (that's his name)...
Clear Cutn Bear Shootn Man Dingo (that's his name)...
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on Tony's Nightmare.
High up on Tony's Nightmare.
Rock Climbing Photo: In great shape, 2/7/2013.
BETA PHOTO: In great shape, 2/7/2013.
Rock Climbing Photo: Myke at the top.  Happy guy.
Myke at the top. Happy guy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan get to the top.
Bryan get to the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Myke breaking the ice.  Stop it!
Myke breaking the ice. Stop it!
Rock Climbing Photo: Boots with Myke belaying down below.
Boots with Myke belaying down below.
Rock Climbing Photo: Boots coming up the corner on the left.
Boots coming up the corner on the left.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken on 1/5/03 by Bryan Boots--very soft ice that...
Taken on 1/5/03 by Bryan Boots--very soft ice that...
Rock Climbing Photo: Feb 02
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken on 1/5/03 by Bryan Boots.
Taken on 1/5/03 by Bryan Boots.

Comments on Tony's Nightmare Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Dec 31, 2001

This was my second pitch of ice climbing ever (TRed) and I wanted to submit something on the ice section. My first was the lower ice section along the approach (same gully). It was good enough for me to want to swing axes again. Anyway, there is a sling anchor for a descent to the left of the flow.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 6, 2003

A fixed TR anchor exists as some slings and biners 15ft left of the top.

Ice is not as fat as in the pic above from Feb 02, but quite wet and plastic. It should form up some more w/ colder temps here. The gully below is in the same soft condition, but neither are thin by any manner. Snow depth in the gully is low and conditions are stable from brief inspection (no weak interface layer).

Nice ice and hearty approach, but the I-70 traffic is a little annoying to hear all day long.
By Chris Sutton
Nov 10, 2003

FYI, after reading the beta on the sling anchor, it is note worthy that there is a good bolted anchor with shuts for TR and rapping, it's a bit higher up from the sling anchor, on the left, look for a giant boulder.
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Nov 21, 2010
rating: WI3-

Just for some reasonable clarification: Tony Nightmare is WI3 50' The lower approach ice is WI2+ 60'. You can bypass the lower ice to the left by working up slabs and thin ledges. The avi danger in there is super exposed. Tons of wind-loading happens way above in the upper gullies. The ice above the main WI3 pitch rambles at WI2- 100' and trees with old tat and rings abound to rap from.
By r.f
From: colorado springs
Apr 5, 2013

Conditions over Easter Weekend were good. The nightmare was the approach. A 1000-1500 feet of slogging through snow and scree. Ice was solid. 1st pitch is easily soloed, W12+ maybe, pitch two a bit farther up. It's the work, maybe 40-50 ft of WI3-4. Pick your line. Belay to the left to avoid ice and rock fall. Next pitch involves some WI2+ climbing, with some snow slogging, solo it. Ropes really are only needed for descent. If you make it to P3, might as well shoot for the summit and get a little alpine experience. Snow slope was stable on 5 MAR. Ice was solid and took long screws. All in all, a ton of work for some minimial climbing. The Shroud seems a better bet based on the approach and about the same quality of ice. IMHO the "Nightmare Tony had" was the horrendous approach. Slings and rap rings abound on all trees. As always, watch for avy danger as the entire climb is in an avy chute.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!