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Ragged Edges Area
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Tonto T 
Unsorted Routes:

Tonto 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,639
Submitted By: tom silvestrini on Apr 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Leisha having fun on her first trad lead.

(Taken...

Description 

30 feet left of Ragged Edges is an obvious finger crack on a low angle face. It is just to the right of a large arch that curves to the right. Foot smears at the start turns into foot jams in the crack. About half way up move out of the crack to the right on the face to jugs at the top. It gets easier as you go. Two stars because decent 5.5's are hard to come by at RR.

Protection 

Small to medium pro. Well protected. Slung tree at the top to rap down on a single.


Photos of Tonto Slideshow Add Photo
Zane starting up Tonto with an inordinate amount of pro.
Zane starting up Tonto with an inordinate amount o...
Leisha having a blast placing gear, and cruisin up her first trad lead. <br /> <br />(Taken 9/15/07)
Leisha having a blast placing gear, and cruisin up...
Sheri having fun on Tonto!!
Sheri having fun on Tonto!!
Willow Spring Overview
BETA PHOTO: Willow Spring Overview
You can face climb OR jam the crack for extra fun and/or practice; Great climb!!
You can face climb OR jam the crack for extra fun ...
Brent Davis at the top of Tonto. his second day on real rock and cruising!
Brent Davis at the top of Tonto. his second day on...
Tonto
BETA PHOTO: Tonto
dirty son of a cinch LEADING TONTO
dirty son of a cinch LEADING TONTO

Comments on Tonto Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2014
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 13, 2004

Pretty fun route for a beginning trad leader. No bolts at the top, belay from a tree. If there are slings and rings, you can rap off with a 60 meter rope with about a foot left to spare. (Have you measured your rope?) A fun variation is to continue up the crack instead of heading right halfway up. Then, pull a fun overhangy section and that gets you to the top (5.7).
By 10b4me
Apr 13, 2005

Gear Alert
Rumor has it that someone yanked the rap station on top of Tonto- forcing a walk off. If I get out there sometime soon, I'll take some webbing and replace it, but if anyone beats me to it, we'd all appreciate it...
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Sep 7, 2006

i went up their in june and left two new webbing rap anchors and two new omega pacific rap rings around the tree, good route you can barely rappel with one 60 meter rope, screw ropes this thing is pretty solid go solo that bitch!
By Rob "Roberto" Dowse
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 11, 2006

Climbed this on Saturday 9/9/06 and there were no rap rings or slings on the tree...The walk off is pretty easy though.
By Blitzo
Sep 23, 2006

I free soloed this back in 1980, thinking that it might be a first ascent. It was a fun, easy solo.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Super fun and positive; takes great gear! Make sure your rope is the FULL 60 meters if rappeling; it only makes it with rope stretch. Don't miss this route!! The rappel is really fun by the way...
By Mark L
May 13, 2008

Climbed this a while back but I remember the gear being absent on the slab traverse. Also, longer runners helpful for the last piece before the slab traverse and after it to reduce drag. Dont be a dummy like me and climb all the way under the roof thinking that was the route ;-) (climbed before the online topo was available)
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Oct 9, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I led this route on Sunday, beautiful day for it. Much more aesthetic than my first lead on it (I went up through the chimney, ugh!). Good opportunities to use old fashioned hexes on this route. Check the black marks on the ledge below the station. Your rappel rope should run to the right of the two knobs on the boulder. If you keep the rope there, you will have just enough with the stretch to reach the ground.

There is a significant drop off at the flake. I recommend a prusik to slow your descent over that section. Nice climb!
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Apr 13, 2009

Led up this yesterday. Two slings and a rap ring were at the top just above Kemosabe. Fun climb that takes nuts or cams. Keep and eye out for rope drag at the overhanging finish. I backtracked and placed a long runner on my last piece to reduce the drag for the belay. Rap off or walk off to the right (past Ragged Edges)
By Tyson Anderson
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Nice, easy trad lead. Placed up to a #3 camalot but it probably wasn't necessary to go that big.
By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Apr 30, 2010

Fun crack and face climbing. Wouldn't really say its "well" protected up top, although easy climbing. I had horrible rope drag, so watch your rope when you go over or around the roof up top. As of 4/25/10 there were 3 slings and a rap ring on the tree.
By shannon park
Mar 29, 2011

great route for beginning trad. loved the straight up variation through the overhang. easily protected w/ small cams & nuts and #3 or #4 for variation. my first free solo route. have added additional webbing and OP wrap ring. hope they stay.
By Jeremy Taylor (JT)
From: NV
Mar 31, 2011

Did this with some friends today. It was my first free solo too back in 99' We did the 5.7 Variation with was great fun with a small (one move) chimney section. Thanks for the slings and rings Shannon.
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Great fun. Good beginner lead. Focus is on pro rather than difficult climbing. First 25 feet was delicate, slightly more difficult than the upper section. Start with a few smears on smooth dishes. Then jugs and positive holds all the way through traverse and the slight overhang to topout. I threw in a few nuts, a #1 Metolius mastercam, then doubles of .5, .75, and 1 BD C4. Bring couple slings when it wanders. slings and two rap rings on tree for 60 rap. Just over 100 ft.
By dirty son of a cinch
From: las vegas, nv
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

MY THIRD LEAD TRAD LEAD... 5.5 SOLID--GOOD MOVES WITH A TREE AND FOUR SLINGS ON IT. i felt that protection was slight scarce in the middle but the climbing was gravy...
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Apr 29, 2013

Good climb for beginner leader. No need for anything bigger than a #3. Two slings and rings on the rap tree. Bring your own those two are getting tatty.
By Justin.Trayford
Oct 1, 2013

Great beginner route! The entire climb can be easily done with passive gear.
By Tony Whitney
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 27, 2014

This is a classic route at RR. It is a great way to learn trad. It is well protected and teaches how to use longer slings to help with rope drag. As of May 26th, the slings around the tree are good. Beware of the rappel, there is quite the overhang on the way down.