Tongueless Wonder  5.11

453 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Pete deLannoy Submitted By:  R.Walters on Apr 15, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route goes up a crack system of sorts, using unique features the whole way. Powerful liebacks lead to pockets and then a big ledge where one can lounge. The crux is through the next couple bolts above the roof. A neat sequence of moves that are both pumpy and technical will get you through to the easier climbing at the finish. The bottom rock is a little slick, but once past the first bolt, things clean up pretty nicely.

As the guidebook states, this would be a difficult onsight. Be ready for everything..

Location 

Immediately right of Buffalo Gap and left of Son of 1,000 Fathers.

The route goes straight up the bolt line. Another 5.11, 'Oral Fixation,' veers left around the 5th bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts, closed cold shuts.
Recommend stick-clip for first bolt.