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Main Wall
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Tongue Thai'd 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009
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Felicia Terry starting up tongue Thai'd

Description 

Long route that takes the left hand arete of the smooth portion of the Main Wall. The crux is crossing over the small roof at the top onto the headwall with the shared anchors with Ancient Chinese Secret.


Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Tongue Thai'd Slideshow Add Photo
Roof moves ahead.... much easier without gail-force winds!
Roof moves ahead.... much easier without gail-forc...
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By brucy
Apr 27, 2010

We thought the idea of traversing to the anchors of the route to the right was bogus- this route should of had an anchor of it's own. The crux down below was not very interesting- merely several insecure moves. Not a very highly recommended route.

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Dec 5, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Agree about the anchor. A climber in our group continued climbing straight up, not knowing to traverse right to the anchor and had to down climb.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 6, 2010

Nathan Scherneck is right on target regarding the anchor, as we watched a leader climb over the top to discover no anchor, and risk a huge fall in order to down climb to establish an anchor at the top of "Ancient Chinese Secret." The two climbs should have independent anchors.

By Rough
Dec 6, 2010

In my defense, I do show it sharing anchors with Ancient Chinese Secret on the free topo :) I always meant to go back and add an anchor, but never did before moving out of SoCal. I am totally open to someone doing it or maybe next time I am down I'll bring a few bolts and add them.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 1, 2013

8 bolts chain anchor shares with neighboring route to right.

Not my favorite, but had little to do with the anchor set-up. Appreciate the permission from Rough for anyone to fix-up as needed. Agreed, topo depicts shared system and with traffic low...don't personally think it's a problem.