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Tongue River Canyon

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Big Bird Area 
Bridge, The 
Happy Trails 
Hidden Wall 
Keyhole Arch 
Knight, The 
Landslide, The 
Lower Canyon Bands 
Prow Amphitheater, The 
Sentry, The 
Shadow Wall 
Snag Wall 
Winter Wall 

Tongue River Canyon  


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Page Views: 27,372
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 24, 2006
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Looking back toward the trailhead at the Keyhole A...

Description 

Numerous limestone walls with routes for all abilities. Trad lines... bolt clipping... whatever your taste may be, you'll find it here. The south-facing walls can be incredibly hot in the summer... and quite warm in latter winter and early spring. Regarding crowds... you're more likely to trip over fishermen than have to wait for the classic lines.

Getting There 

East of Sheridan on I-90 about 15 miles to the Ranchester exit. West on 14A about 5 miles to Dayton. As you are entering town, just before crossing the Tongue River bridge, turn right and follow the road that parallels the Tongue River. About 3 miles of dirt road will lead you to a Y in the road. Bear left, regain the river for about 2 more miles. The road ends in your parking lot. Follow the foot trail for about 1/2 mile to a bridge that crosses the river. The first climbs are located on the wall to your immediate right. Continue on the trail upstream... and you'll see SEVERAL walls to your right.

For more detailed information, stop in at Bighorn Mountain Sports or Back Country Bicycles in Sheridan, Wyoming.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.6 miles from here

51 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',6],['5.9',9],['5.10',13],['5.11',8],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tongue River Canyon:
Elf   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Bird Area
Yellow Knight   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Knight
DJs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Big Bird Area
Call Me a Cab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Big Bird Area
Edwards Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Big Bird Area
Big Bird   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Big Bird Area
Close To The Edge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Big Bird Area
Going to Extremes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Bird Area
White Knight   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Knight
Browse More Classics in Tongue River Canyon

Featured Route For Tongue River Canyon
Levi Van Buggenum styling the classic Edwards Crac...

Edwards Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WY : Tongue River Canyon : Big Bird Area
The uber-classic canyon trad route! A splitter fingercrack up a yellow, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof. Ascend it using assorted stemming, laybacking, fingerlocks, and faceholds; save some energy for the devious traverse below the upper roof to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Comments on Tongue River Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 7, 2007
I have some tremendous memories of Tongue River Canyon. What a wonderful place, along with Steamboat Rock.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Aug 3, 2010
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for over 100 routes in Tongue River Canyon and the other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.
By Fielding Phillips
From: Sheridan, wy
Aug 4, 2010
Trevor, Thank you!!! I have been checking in with the guys at back country bikes all summer! I'll be heading down there now to pick a copy up... If you ever want a partner, I have a lot of free time(climbing time)!
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Mar 28, 2013
Anyone want to meet a Tounger River Canyon tomorrow. Yeah, Yeah, short notice.
By Clay Stoner
From: Sheridan, Wy
Mar 28, 2013
@David - Stop into the Sports Stop in downtown Sheridan and talk to Bruce. He's their climbing guy and keeps a list of locals that might be interested in meeting up with you while you are in town. Good Luck
By Ron Kraft
Apr 5, 2013
Tom Johannes has successfully retrieved the drill bit from a new trad crack climb route father up the canyon. Good roof, he rates it at a lower 5.10. Anchors at the top now, will try to post a photo or two later on.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Nov 21, 2013
Thanks Clay, going to be around next week (Thanksgiving). I'll check in with Bruce.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Dec 2, 2013
Hi folks, just spent some time in the Waterstreak area. Was a lot of trash at the base. Pack out some of it, but still a bunch left over.