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Tom's Thumb

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Deep Freeze T 
Garbonzo Bean T 
Hard Drivin' T 
Hot Line T 
Kreuser's Route T 
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 
Sacred Datura Direct T 
Succubus T 
Treiber's Deception T 
West Corner T 

Tom's Thumb Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,000'
Location: 33.68665, -111.8089 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,614
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Feb 21, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: North face, right side.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Access: MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Tom's Thumb is a prominent 140-foot plug of desert granite that perches atop the McDowell Mountains ridgeline. It is visible from miles in all directions. Originally called "The Dork" by the old time Phoenix climbers, it was rechristened Tom's Thumb in honor of climber Tom Kreuser back in the day.

    The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.

    Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.

    Getting There 

    Approach as for Gardener's Wall parking, but pick out a trail through the desert aiming for a drainage leading straight down the hillside from the Thumb. Watch out for snakes in the warm times of the year!

    A nice day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!

    Climbing Season

    For the McDowell Mountains area.

    Weather station 3.9 miles from here

    10 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Tom's Thumb

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tom's Thumb:
    Treiber's Deception   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Garbonzo Bean   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Sacred Datura Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Hot Line   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Succubus   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Deep Freeze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tom's Thumb

    Featured Route For Tom's Thumb
    Rock Climbing Photo: The money climb, Deep Freeze (5.11). Garbanzo Bean...

    Deep Freeze 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Tom's Thumb
    Far and away the best single route in the McDowells- plus it goes to the top of a tower. Twin 10+/11- cruxes, one low and one high plus quality climbing on this long pitch, or obvious two pitch split. A must do (before access denied?)....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

    Photos of Tom's Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: A perfect day at the Thumb
    BETA PHOTO: A perfect day at the Thumb
    Rock Climbing Photo: McDowells
    BETA PHOTO: McDowells
    Rock Climbing Photo: Treiber's Deception
    Treiber's Deception
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pano from the top of the Thumb
    Pano from the top of the Thumb
    Rock Climbing Photo: New trail signage near Tom Thumb directions to Mor...
    BETA PHOTO: New trail signage near Tom Thumb directions to Mor...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ubangy Lips and Pretty Girls Make Graves on the No...
    BETA PHOTO: Ubangy Lips and Pretty Girls Make Graves on the No...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Full moon rise from the new trail to Tom's Thumb a...
    Full moon rise from the new trail to Tom's Thumb a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Thumb with a climber at the 1st roof of Treibe...
    BETA PHOTO: Tom Thumb with a climber at the 1st roof of Treibe...
    Rock Climbing Photo: North facing view of Tom's Thumb
    North facing view of Tom's Thumb
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pano from the top of the Dork
    Pano from the top of the Dork

    Comments on Tom's Thumb Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 16, 2009
    New access Fund Update:

    Update: New Access for North Area of McDowells
    In May we reported on the recent success of the Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) and local Arizona climbers in working with the City of Scottsdale to open the north area of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve to climbing. Part of the climbing management plan requires that climbers use official parking areas and designated trails, which the local climbing community is currently working to establish. The AMC is pleased to report that the new Tom’s Thumb trail is now open and can be accessed from a temporary parking area in the general vicinity of Morrell's Parking Lot, where the permanent parking will eventually be located.

    For more information on the Tom’s Thumb Trail and designated access to the other historic climbing crags in the area, visit the Arizona Mountaineering Club's website.
    By ClimbPHX.com
    From: Mesa AZ
    Dec 3, 2009
    Please be aware of the new trails and signs that have been placed in the region. To protect the environment, we ask that travel be restricted to the maintained trails.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trail Signage will look like this.
    Trail Signage will look like this.
    By ClimbPHX.com
    From: Mesa AZ
    May 4, 2010
    There is an active hive moving about the rocks just south of the Thumb. - Beware - the bees were moving in a swarm and were aggressive.
    By Tradoholic
    Sep 25, 2012
    It's about an hour hike from the new parking lot to Tom's on the new trail. Might be harder but faster to go to Gardners Wall then scramble up to the Thumb.
    By Taylor Bentz
    Feb 23, 2014
    Hey all, I was on Sucubus (5.10a) today and when I was rapping down I saw a raptor fly out of the alcove on Sacred Datura Direct (5.9). Upon descent, I found indeed there is a raptor nest in Sacred Datura Direct.

    I am relatively new to the Phoenix area, but I know every other crag I've climbed at in the US refrains from climbing while and where raptors are nesting. Although I am no expert, it seems to me that all routes right of Treiber's (5.7) and left of Great Compromise (5.9) should be avoided out of good climbing ethic for the time being.

    Can somebody who actually knows what they're talking about here weigh in?
    By lou
    May 20, 2014
    Hey Taylor; I saw the falcons a couple weeks ago as well! They are Prairie falcons. Three yrs ago a pair of Peregrine falcons tried to nest in that same alcove! That was the first time I noticed nesting falcons. Not sure if they were successful in rearing any young. And yes, most climbers are or should be guardians of the environment! And yes alot of cliffs are closed here in Az. for falcons to nest. If falcons are disturbed while nesting ( evidenced by screaming adults ) the eggs can cool n die or the young can be scared from the ledge before they can fly. The whole formation of Toms thumb should be closed from Jan to June. Anyone standing on the top of Toms thumb and throwing ropes and such would disturbed nesting falcons. I dont think the land managers of the area (mcdowell sonoran preserve ) know of the situation. Im in the process of trying to contact them and see if we can institute a seasonal closure. Feel free to contact them as well. It will piss off the dill weed climbers, but oh well. My background to speak of the biology of falcons is twofold ( Wildlife biologist and falconer ).

    cheers lou
    By manuel rangel
    From: Tempe, Arizona
    May 21, 2014
    Prairie falcons aren't on the Endangered Species List anymore. Although some land managers have used the List as an arbitrary closure. I am very disappointed when anyone bothers wild life. Hopefully both Taylor and Lou were nice enough to stop climbing and walk the talk. Otherwise, did the birds leave? Were they disturbed enough to wreck the nest?

    I have seen falcons elsewhere in AZ, Isolation Canyon for one. In that area, I have noticed their nest for years and avoided the nearby routes when they were active. I have seen people climb near them and they will let you know when you are too close. If you see a nest or falcons near your route, move on.

    Contacting the Scottsdale land managers is only going to fan the fire to close everything. Hopefully Scottsdale will have the same response as the Natl Forest when informed of the falcons in Isolatiion: they aren't endangered. That will leave us as the stewards of the cliffs.

    Please share the places we enjoy with the wild things. Show them respect and care for them without intervention by the "Authorities".
    By lou
    May 21, 2014
    Hey Manny... I know how what a pain it can be to have cliffs closed. But we need to protect the native fauna. Prairies arent endangered, neither are peregrines. However they are protected Federally from harassment. That is why there are still cliffs closed for Peregrines all over the West ( Yosemite, Zion, Mt Lemon, Chochise, J-tree ) So kinda a moot point about endangerment; we dont need to puch them back. I generally walk the walk. When the birds "let you know" they are very distressed and eggs can chill and young can suffer. Nest are very exacting in the direction they face, height, size, exposure, etc... some nests are dated in use for a thousand yrs! As to the National forest response; it was the local Payson state wildlife manger; Im the one who informed them and told you of the response, remember? Anyhow, his lack of response is not typical and certainly not of Federal land managers; so that particular issue is not necessarily finished. Your last lines ring true; too bad alot of climbers dont have the morals and respect that you do.... you know that!!

    cheers.. lou
    By manuel rangel
    From: Tempe, Arizona
    Feb 24, 2015
    Just saw your comments Lou. I remember you telling me about your phone con and the results.

    Just what law are you referring to concerning harrassment of falcons etc? The only one cited was the Migratory Species Act. It is a stretch to use that law but it has been used so far. Other than that, they deserve the same respect any animal is due, including leaving them to nest alone.

    If you can point out a law, that would be dandy. The closures in AZ you mentioned are under scrutiny as well. You can't hold everyone accountable with useless policies set in stone; that has to change.

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