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Tom's Thumb

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Deep Freeze 
Garbonzo Bean 
Hard Drivin' 
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Kreuser's Route 
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct 
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Succubus 
Treiber's Deception 
West Corner 

Tom's Thumb 


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Elevation: 3,000'
Page Views: 9,891
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Feb 21, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Ubangy Lips and Pretty Girls Make Graves on the No...
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Description 

Tom's Thumb is a prominent 140-foot plug of desert granite that perches atop the McDowell Mountains ridgeline. It is visible from miles in all directions. Originally called "The Dork" by the old time Phoenix climbers, it was rechristened Tom's Thumb in honor of climber Tom Kreuser back in the day.

The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.

Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.


Getting There 

Approach as for Gardener's Wall parking, but pick out a trail through the desert aiming for a drainage leading straight down the hillside from the Thumb. Watch out for snakes in the warm times of the year!

A nice day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tom's Thumb:
Garbonzo Bean   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Treiber's Deception   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sacred Datura Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Succubus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Hot Line   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Deep Freeze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Browse More Classics in Tom's Thumb

Featured Route For Tom's Thumb
Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness of deep freeze the 11 left of garbonzo bean on your next trip to the thumb! Thats me on top after I soloed it last winter. LOL

Garbonzo Bean 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Tom's Thumb
This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with so...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For Tom's Thumb
Photos of Tom's Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
McDowells
BETA PHOTO: McDowells
A perfect day at the Thumb
BETA PHOTO: A perfect day at the Thumb
Tom Thumb with a climber at the 1st roof of Treibers Deception
BETA PHOTO: Tom Thumb with a climber at the 1st roof of Treibe...
Treiber's Deception
Treiber's Deception
North facing view of Tom's Thumb
North facing view of Tom's Thumb
New trail signage near Tom Thumb directions to Morrell Wall
BETA PHOTO: New trail signage near Tom Thumb directions to Mor...
North face, right side.
BETA PHOTO: North face, right side.
Full moon rise from the new trail to Tom's Thumb after an epic day....pretty sweet to take in Morrell's Wall and Tom's Thumb in perfect conditions in a day!
Full moon rise from the new trail to Tom's Thumb a...
Pano from the top of the Thumb
Pano from the top of the Thumb
Comments on Tom's Thumb Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2009

New access Fund Update:

Update: New Access for North Area of McDowells
In May we reported on the recent success of the Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) and local Arizona climbers in working with the City of Scottsdale to open the north area of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve to climbing. Part of the climbing management plan requires that climbers use official parking areas and designated trails, which the local climbing community is currently working to establish. The AMC is pleased to report that the new Tomís Thumb trail is now open and can be accessed from a temporary parking area in the general vicinity of Morrell's Parking Lot, where the permanent parking will eventually be located.

For more information on the Tomís Thumb Trail and designated access to the other historic climbing crags in the area, visit the Arizona Mountaineering Club's website.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Dec 3, 2009

Please be aware of the new trails and signs that have been placed in the region. To protect the environment, we ask that travel be restricted to the maintained trails.

Trail Signage will look like this.
Trail Signage will look like this.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
May 4, 2010

There is an active hive moving about the rocks just south of the Thumb. - Beware - the bees were moving in a swarm and were aggressive.

By Tradoholic
Sep 25, 2012

It's about an hour hike from the new parking lot to Tom's on the new trail. Might be harder but faster to go to Gardners Wall then scramble up to the Thumb.

By Taylor Bentz
Feb 23, 2014

Hey all, I was on Sucubus (5.10a) today and when I was rapping down I saw a raptor fly out of the alcove on Sacred Datura Direct (5.9). Upon descent, I found indeed there is a raptor nest in Sacred Datura Direct.

I am relatively new to the Phoenix area, but I know every other crag I've climbed at in the US refrains from climbing while and where raptors are nesting. Although I am no expert, it seems to me that all routes right of Treiber's (5.7) and left of Great Compromise (5.9) should be avoided out of good climbing ethic for the time being.

Can somebody who actually knows what they're talking about here weigh in?