"Tommy" (Unnamed)  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Bob & Carrie Robertson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

"Tommy" climbs the left side of the clean buttress...

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Description 

Although short, this line features a number of hard moves and not much rest. As one of the sunniest routes on this cliffline, this is a great choice for a colder day.

Stick clip the first bolt, then climb easy choss on the left to reach a good stance at the first bolt. Make a few huge reaches between sinker, jug pockets on a slightly overhanging wall. As the rock color changes, the holds shrink and small pockets and edges lead to a pumpy rest. A big move passing a horizontal break leads to the anchor.

Location 

The furthest left bolted route at the North Gym. Hike ~5-6 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate a buttress with three routes with red, bed-frame hangers. This is the leftmost of these three routes.

Protection 

5 bolts with red angle-iron hangers, 2 ring bolt anchor.

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The Arcade: 1. "Tommy". 2. "Pacman Gomez". 3. Pow...