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Tommy Gun 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Addison, Chip Ruckgaber, & Matt Slater, 1981
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Dec 14, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jason Haas follows the first pitch of 'Tommy Gun (...
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  • Description 

    This is a steep, wild, and pretty good 2-pitch route located uphill of Velvet Elvis, just left of the clean left-facing corner (The Raven). The first pitch starts up and right along a flake, which involves somewhat spicy climbing but on easier terrain. The flake progresses into a shallow, right-facing corner, where you stem and face climb up interesting 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing, with smaller nuts and/or creative gear in the corner. The corner fades and the line face climbs up and right, past a bulge, to the large horizontal ledge. Traverse left to the overhanging crack and belay.

    The second pitch is relatively brief, but it goes out a splitter hand crack set in an exposed, overhanging, left-facing dihedral! Fire up the sustained and exposed crack, and belay on top. This is a nice finish to a good climb. Third class down to the rappel anchors above The Raven and rap 60' to the ground.


    Protection 

    Standard rack including small nuts/RPs, Aliens, and extra thin hand and hand-sized pieces for the roof.



    Photos of Tommy Gun Slideshow Add Photo
    Jason Haas considers the upper crux while following 'Tommy Gun (5.11-)' on the East Ironing Board. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
    Jason Haas considers the upper crux while followin...
    Comments on Tommy Gun Add Comment
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    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Oct 23, 2003

    After reading your "stars" definition, I'd have to upgrade this one to a 2-star, it's pretty damned good! Also, I left the rating description at "5.11" which is how it's listed in the guidebook... however, the first pitch is probably 5.11 or b, and the last pitch is probably 5.11a.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 9, 2007
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    P1- 10d or 11a. The early gear is so-so and the step up to the first bolt is on a pebble that is looking insecure. The bolts need replaced- though the 1st one can be backed up with an OK nut.
    P2- 10c. I could hang out whereever, whenever, but the moves are off-balance.