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Jason Haas considers the upper crux while followin...
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This is a steep, wild, and pretty good 2-pitch route located uphill of Velvet Elvis, just left of the clean left-facing corner (the Raven). The first pitch starts up and right along a flake, which involves somewhat spicy climbing but on easier terrain. The flake progresses into a shallow right-facing corner, where you stem and face climb up interesting 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing, with smaller nuts and/or creative gear in the corner. The corner fades and the line face climbs up and right, past a bulge, to the large horizontal ledge. Traverse left to the overhanging crack and belay.
The second pitch is relatively brief, but it goes out a splitter hand crack set in an exposed, overhanging, left-facing dihedral! Fire up the sustained and exposed crack, and belay on top. Nice finish to a good climb. Third class down to the rappel anchors above the Raven and rap 60' to the ground.
Standard rack including small nuts/RPs, Aliens, and extra thin hand and hand-sized pieces for the roof.
Jason Haas follows the first pitch of 'Tommy Gun (...
|By Steve Annecone|
Oct 23, 2003
After reading your "stars" definition, I'd have to upgrade this one to a 2-star, it's pretty damned good! Also, I left the rating description at "5.11" which is how it's listed in the guidebook... however, the first pitch is probably 5.11 or b, and the last pitch is probably 5.11a.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 9, 2007
P1- 10d or 11a. The early gear is so-so and the step up to the first bolt is on a pebble that is looking insecure. The bolts need replaced- though the 1st one can be backed up with an OK nut.
P2- 10c. I could hang out whereever, whenever, but the moves are off-balance.