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East Ironing Board
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Tommy Gun T 
Velvet Elvis S 

Tommy Gun 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Addison, Chip Ruckgaber, & Matt Slater, 1981
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Dec 14, 2002

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Jason Haas follows the first pitch of 'Tommy Gun (...

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  • Description 

    This is a steep, wild, and pretty good 2-pitch route located uphill of Velvet Elvis, just left of the clean left-facing corner (The Raven). The first pitch starts up and right along a flake, which involves somewhat spicy climbing but on easier terrain. The flake progresses into a shallow, right-facing corner, where you stem and face climb up interesting 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing, with smaller nuts and/or creative gear in the corner. The corner fades and the line face climbs up and right, past a bulge, to the large horizontal ledge. Traverse left to the overhanging crack and belay.

    The second pitch is relatively brief, but it goes out a splitter hand crack set in an exposed, overhanging, left-facing dihedral! Fire up the sustained and exposed crack, and belay on top. This is a nice finish to a good climb. Third class down to the rappel anchors above The Raven and rap 60' to the ground.

    Protection 

    Standard rack including small nuts/RPs, Aliens, and extra thin hand and hand-sized pieces for the roof.


    Photos of Tommy Gun Slideshow Add Photo
    Jason Haas considers the upper crux while following 'Tommy Gun (5.11-)' on the East Ironing Board. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
    Jason Haas considers the upper crux while followin...

    Comments on Tommy Gun Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 9, 2007
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    P1- 10d or 11a. The early gear is so-so and the step up to the first bolt is on a pebble that is looking insecure. The bolts need replaced- though the 1st one can be backed up with an OK nut.
    P2- 10c. I could hang out whereever, whenever, but the moves are off-balance.