Tombstone 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Greg Kuchyt on Jul 19, 2010 |
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Description Steep crack climbing followed by an off-vertical technical face above.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Climb up to the lone bolt, and make the crux move across the face to the crack (protection) below the notch in the overhang. Pull through the overhang, on large features, and follow the line of weakness up to the two bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): From the belay, move right, clip the bolt and then traverse under the bolt to the crack system. Climb the crack until it narrows off, and jog right past the "hollow sounding Tombstone flake" (Lawyer and Haas) and continue up the crack to a bulge with a pin. Pull through the bulge (crux) to a small stance and follow the crack to a bolt and continue face climbing, jogging right after the crack system runs out. Continue trending up and right, past two horizontals (poor pro) & some pockets, to the top.
Location Start: Where the approach trail meets the main cliff. Look up about 10-15 feet for the lone bolt on the left side of the cliff before it becomes progressively dirtier.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope.
Protection Pitch 1: One bolt, two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: Two bolts, one pin, fixed anchor on a tree at top.
Single rack to 3".
By Greg Kuchyt
Jul 19, 2010
| I'm not 100% sure why the pin is there on P2. I was able to get a solid micro-cam in the crack system to the left (a #4 WC Zero, purple Metolius size) essentially at the same place as the pin. I thought the protection up high after the bolt was not as good as I was hoping for. The terrain is easier, but the route finding was trickier for me. |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
Apr 8, 2011
| Really good climb, with some nice splitter climbing - steep and sustained. Upper section was thin without good gear, but I was probably off route. |
By Greg Kuchyt
Apr 12, 2011
| Definitely trend right at the top, the pro is better. |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
May 8, 2012
| Re-climbed this the other day, pretty much climbed directly up from the crux to the top, and in contradiction to my earlier statement, I found the climbing better and definitely reasonably protected. |
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