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BETA PHOTO: Fun OW. No bolts on top.
This is the obivous, splitter crack that you pass on the trail to The Book. It starts in a left-arching hand crack that joins a chimney about 40' up. An offwidth direct start is also possible. Continue up the chimney (a little run out here) to gain an offwidth crack to the shoulder of The Tombstone.
This is the obvious, splitter crack on the southwest face of The Tombstone. It is about 15' off the main trail to The Book and right in front of Fat City Crack.
Large gear is needed to protect the route. A single set of cams from fingers all the way to a #6 C4 should be adequate. If you are doing the direct start another wide piece would probably be needed.
There are no anchors at the top of this route and no walkoff. Improvising a rappel may require some creativity.
|By James Beissel|
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009
We had a mini-epic on this route when we discovered that we lacked enough big gear to complete it. I consider myself a reasonably solid offwidth climber but not neither of us were willing to entertain the idea of climbing this without a good cam nearby.
Thanks to the climber who helped get our rope up the backside so we could retrieve our gear!
|By Tom Lekan|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2010
In the OW, I placed a #4 C4 and walked a #5 up the rest. Another #5, or a #6 as suggested, would have made things more enjoyable. Fun climb though. A slung horn with two ovals for lowering were there, 9/6/2010.
Sep 12, 2010
This route was a chest scumming good time. I was grateful for a #6 but two #5s would be plenty sufficient.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 10, 2011
You can leap frog a green Big Bro and a #5 C4 in the upper offwidth. The lower squeeze is basically unprotected unless you have a #5 Bigbro. Keep everything off of your right hip for the upper section!