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Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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Roof's Way 
Rupee Dog Route 
Rush Buick 
Russian Arete 
Self Abuse 
Shallow Grave 
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Stay Hungry 
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Tombstone 
Uninspiring Wall 
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You'll Poke Your Eye Out 

Tombstone 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Jim Ericson & Paul Sibley, 1970]
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,162
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
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Joseffa Meir starts up the very steep and gymnasti...

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Description 

Find Hawk Eagle Ridge by following the directions under the 'Rock' category. Walk up past the initial buttress, passing DOA and Cinch Crack. The rock becomes short and [non-descript] for a hundred yards or so, before returning to a single-pitch height of more vertical stone up the hill.

As you reach this tall area, you will see a series of 2 diamond shaped [south] faces that form right-facing dihedrals. After passing the second of these, you will be under and a massive overhang, where the trail runs parallel to a large, fallen, [rotten] tree.

Looking up from this point into the massive overhang/roof you will see a hand-to-fist splitter crack which runs through it, opening to a bomb-bay slot at the top. This is Tombstone, a reference point for the other area climbs.

The climb goes quickly from a gymnastically overhanging handcrack to a weird off-squeeze for a few moves. After that, it is a treat for anyone, big holds, big moves, and reasonable gear. The crux can be done from a nearly up-side-down position.


Protection 

A double set of Camalots or cams to 3.5" will do. Leg shake might be reduced by a #4 Camalot.



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By Bill Wright
Sep 13, 2001

Actually, while you do climb into an overhanging slot, you never have to use any wide crack technique to climb this route. It is really short and quite fun. I recommend bringing a #4 or even a #4.5 Camalot. You only need single units for this route and about 5 placements will protect it nicely.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
May 21, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Not bad climbing, it's just so short. Maybe 30'? Poison Ivy abounds.

By Anonymous Coward
May 9, 2005

Rope eater.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 15, 2006

Once you turn the lip and head for the tree anchor, make sure to flip your rope out of the crack, otherwise it will jam up really badly.