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Tombstone Terror 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Anderson, Miller, Smith, and Sumner 1976
Page Views: 5,097
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

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Last good stance before the crux...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is probably the best 5.10c pitch at the Leap. This route is located around the corner to the left of the start of Traveler Buttress. The climb gets its name due to the large rocks at the base that look like tombstones. The first 15ft are unprotected so don't fall.

Face climb up to the roof and work to get your first good gear in place. Follow the thin crack with jams and liebacks. The climb does not let up until handjams are reached above the small roof. Follow a widening crack to a set of anchors at 80ft. A real gem...

Protection 

Gear to 3", include small cams and extra hand-sized pieces.


Photos of Tombstone Terror Slideshow Add Photo
mid crux, note the hard sport climb to the left...
mid crux, note the hard sport climb to the left...
Tombstone climbs the corner system in the center o...
Tombstone climbs the corner system in the center o...

Comments on Tombstone Terror Add Comment
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By richard magill
Jun 10, 2006

Fantastic - a must do!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 18, 2007

This is really a fantastic pitch!!

Some bouldery moves off the ground to get going, then an incredible layback/stemming dihedral! Slight spray alert, I was very psyched to onsight this thing!
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Kinda scary off the ground, unprotected, sustained moves above a bad landing of tombstone shaped rocks that have probably seen their fair share of blood splatters.

Above that the gear is great, however the moves are still sustained and hard. Get ready for some exhilarating friction stems and .10+ liebacking.

A few fun and exposed moves up high and your at the anchor.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Took another crack at this route on lead last weekend. I feel like I'm a pretty competent 5.10 climber at this point and this route was very challenging for me (sustained). Technically it was well within my ability, but I lost my head and my endurance just before pulling the roof at the end of the crux.

Although the gear is great for 90% of the route, the start is... really scary. Poorly/non protected 5.10 climbing with a small .5 camalot placement 7-8 feet from the ground that will do little to protect your fall once past waist level. At it's peak scariness, your feet get up to 15 ft. off the ground until you hit some good gear.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Anyone else think the anchors for this climb are in an awkward place?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 20, 2009

The bolted anchor that you traverse to out right is actually the Boothill anchor. The 'trad' way to do tombstone is to belay at the break, and then top out the second (and seldom done) pitch. But people use the boothill anchor for cragging convenience.
By Marty Garrison
Oct 8, 2014

In 77 I ran into a Rattlesnake back in the crack right after the crux...