It can be climbed in three short pitches.
P1 (5.9) - Clip a bolt then follow a left-leaning crack.
P2 (5.7) - Traverse left and climb over a roof on good holds.
P3 (5.11) - Climb vertical arete to left traversing arete to gain the summit of pyramid-shaped rock.
There is a "V" of two crack on the south side of Wango's Workshop. It is the left one with a bolt at just off the ground. You can rap to the ground from the 2nd anchor with a 60m rope.
Traditional gear is needed for the first 2 pitches. The 3rd pitch has 3 bolts. All anchors are bolted.
|By Brian S|
Jul 26, 2011
This is a fun route. The first pitch had lichen in the crack. It should clean up with more ascents. "THE VOO: Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo" lists it as 5.9/A0. I onsight free climbed the A0 bolt ladder on the third pitch on 07/24/11. It is hard to grade onsights, but I would guess 5.11a.
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
We did this on our last of 5 days in The Voo - a gorgeous day at Upper Blair with zero humans out there except us.
A good warmup to this is to do the 5.8 one-pitch rightward crack next to this route, take a lunch break in the cool nook, and then proceed.
The first pitch felt easy for me at 5.9 in terms of restfulness between harder moves. In our overall fatigue for the week, we missed reading the left-traverse beta for P2, instead attempting to go straight up the left-facing corner crack (guessing this probably goes free at ~5.10b especially with gorilla hands/feet), where I got shot down before finding the correct and MUCH easier traverse to finish the pitch.
With a few slings, one can easily link P2 with the P3 aid pitch (which goes easily after pulling on a couple quickdraws) using a 60m rope. This will get you to the interesting mini-summit, with great views of the other Upper Blair formations. One short rap to the P2 bolts, followed by one longer rap (still well within a 60m rope's reach) will get you to the ground.