Sometime in the '80s, Tom Stubbs and Joe Calin had the balls to attempt a wicked looking line on the front side of Terra Tower. Three pitches up they were shut down by the need for thin, direct aid to bypass a section of rock that lead into a humungous wide roof that guarded the top of this impressive face. The route faded into obscurity, only getting a small mention about the need for large-sized units & offwidths and overhangs in Desert Rock III.
In 2008 while cleaning up this modern day classic, the webbing at the P2 anchors was so old it simply tore away from its knifeblade home with a gentle tug. We added a bolt to the thin section on pitch four making it a sane lead. We brought the P2 & P3 anchors up to safe standards and in the process rediscovered one of the best climbs in The Monument. In the Fall of 2012, we added the final piece to this gem, finishing a free line all the way to the top. Pitches 1, 2, & 3 involve all types of variations of fantastic hand jamming, & well pitch 4 is just plain sick!
P1: Climb thin hands and rattly fingers to a pod, go out a roof and hand jam to the top, 100' +/-, 5.10.
- these two driled angles (one's eye is cracked through) can be backed up but someone should plan on beefing this anchor up in the near future.
P2: Fight up the wide slot for 8' till you can start karate chopping up the desert varnish above to a decent stance at two Metolius rap hangers, 50' +/-, 5.10+.
P3: Climb good jams and stems up the stepped roofs above before pulling a hard sequence to get to the ramp (this crack loves to eat your rope so plan ahead). Climb up the ramp till it steepens again, and bust a few sketcy moves (5.10) above your thin gear before entering the large chimney and the top of the pillar at two more Metolius rap hangers, 150' +/-, 5.10+.
P4: Face climb a few hard moves (5.11) to easier but chossy climbing up and to the base of the Maw. Climb out the roof on excellent Wingate. If you're fat like me, you're not going to be able to get inside it, this roof is easier than it looks from the ground, but still solid 5.10 OW. 50' +/-, 5.11.
This climb is definitely in the top five of The Monument tower climbs, but make no mistake, it is still a rarely traveled, full on desert adventure! If you make it to the top, you can get away with one rope and descend the Bazaar Route Variation. If you have to bail past the 2nd pitch, you're gonna need two.
This is on the North-Northeast face of Terra Tower, the side that directly faces town. Climb the left of the two main weaknesses headed up below the huge roof.
2 ropes, nuts, singles from a BD #00-#5, quadruples from #0.75-#3, doubles #4-#5, 2 #4 Big Bros, 1 #3 Big Bro, long runners. We had a Valley Giant #9, but you could easily get away without it.
Hiking up to the base.
Good picture of the upper roof, this route is good...
|Comments on Tom Stubbs Memorial Route - Terra Tower
|By Jesse Zacher|
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Another great Monument adventure. Pitches one and two have some great climbing! Three gets a little loose and bird poop filled. The last pitch is pretty wild and super fun.
We used the following: singles from #0.3(maybe 2) to #0.5; triples from #0.75- #2; double #3; singles from #5-#6. We brought a Valley Giant 9 and did not use any Bigbros, but Bigbros would work. You can get a six in pretty quickly after turning the roof.
On a side note, I would bring in doubles of the smaller gear and do the awesome splitter to the right of the starting pitch to finish off your day!