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Elevation: 3,891 ft
GPS: 37.033, -119.387
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 131,375 total · 511/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Feb 8, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Tollhouse Rock is a 600' granite dome located about an hour northeast of Fresno, at 4000' in the foothills between Fresno and Shaver Lake. A stellar winter weekend destination (or day trip for us locals), it has some of everything -- sport routes, multipitch trad, runout face, and a little bouldering. The views of the Sierra and the valleys unfolding below the dome are fabulous, and definitely make a belay on top of another stellar pitch all the more enjoyable. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12. If you plan on camping, it is possible at Tollhouse, but watch out for drunk rednecks with guns. With a 4WD you can get to the top of Tollhouse Rock and access some hidden spots, though.

The Squarenail crag, just down the highway from Tollhouse Rock, is also included in this area due to its proximity. Squarenail contains primarily sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12, although a few cracks are available, as well as, a boulder with some aid routes.

Getting There Suggest change

From Fresno, the most straight-forward route to Tollhouse Rock and Squarenail is to follow HWY 168 east (if coming from outside Fresno, take the Shaw Ave. Exit off 99 East to 168) past Prather. Its about 35 miles to Prather. Two miles or so past Prather is a stop sign where 168 turns left - follow it.

5.2 miles up the highway (this section is known to locals as "the 4-lane") is a sweeping left hand curve, and roadcut, and a pullout on the right side (hop the curb). This is the pullout for Squarenail. A trail to the cliff starts at the beginning of the roadcut and a slabby rock, and is kind of hidden by brush. It will take you to the top of the cliff. Scramble down the gully on the left to access climbs on the main face, or continue across the top and follow the trail and gully down to access climbs on the left side of the cliff.

To access Tollhouse Rock, continue up the 4-lane for a few miles. Right after it ends, turn right on Tollhouse Road. About 1-1.5 miles down the road, a saddle is reached with an obvious dirt road and parking area on the left. With 4wd or moderate clearance, follow the road under powerlines and park. A serious 4WD road leads up to the top of the descent slab/trail. This is taken to Sunday Slab and the main wall.

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tollhouse Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 145
Tollhouse Traverse
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Old Fart's Edge
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Free and Easy
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Seven Bolts
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Nuts and Bolts
Trad 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
Elephant Walk
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Platinum Plus
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Beginner's Delight
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Taking a Bath With Strangers (a.…
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Wandering Taoist
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Art Baker Memorial
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Sunset Strip
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 6
The Headwall
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Shining Path
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Anasazi
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tollhouse Traverse Main Wall
 145
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Old Fart's Edge Main Wall
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Free and Easy Main Wall
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Seven Bolts Hippo Wall
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Nuts and Bolts Main Wall
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Elephant Walk Main Wall
 68
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Platinum Plus Cap Rocks
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Beginner's Delight Main Wall
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Taking a Bath With Stranger… Hippo Wall
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wandering Taoist Main Wall
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Art Baker Memorial Memorial Wall
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sunset Strip Main Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Headwall Main Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Shining Path Main Wall
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Anasazi Frantic Manic Area
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tollhouse Rock »

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