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Decent pitch but kind of a sandbag, Ladies First or Wee Doggie make a better warm up. Not as good as its namesake across the drainage on 2nd Meat.
Start w/ 20 easy feet on sus rock then layback and stem up a rattly fingers corner w/ occasional rests to a cruxy move at the top pulling onto a ledge.
Between Reaper Wears Pink and Wee Doggie though much closer to the former.
.4 - #2 Camalot, mainly .5 & especially .75.
Mike Keegan making it look easy, as always!
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 14, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
The FA was Ken Kisiel and Dennis Newell. Pull the out-side of the rope to make sure your rope does not get eaten by the crack.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 16, 2009
I found this to be more of a thin hand corner than off fingers. My .75's became way tipped out and I was wishing for a couple #1's or a Black (#5) Metolius. I would have liked at least 3 .75's, 2 #5 metolius and 2 #1's
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Typical IC climbing, harder then it looks! No doubt, be very careful with pullling your rope, there is a huge chance to pinch your rope on this route. There is a cut rope filling the very top of the crack which may help to keep this from happening in the future.