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This route starts in a left facing corner near the far left side of 2nd Meat Wall. It is one of the "cleaner" routes we found on this somewhat obscure wall. Start off climbing a pedestal via easy OW moves to the base of the beautiful crack.
Good hands and a parallel crack(seam) to the left, leads to a small roof. Crank through the roof (perfect hands #2 camalot) to another smaller roof. Turn the roof (you can get a .75 camalot before you commit) and enter a sweeet layback section after which, you get a great rest on a small ledge. Pull through yet another roof (#2 camalots) and top out at the chains (#1 before the chains)
From the trail, head left at the base of the cliff all the way around, till you get to a large left facing alcove. "Pastafarian" 5.12 is just right of this route and is easily identified by two bolts on the face near the top.
1- .75 (just before the laybacks)
1- #1 (just before the chains)
Getting to the first roof
Photo courtesy of Dan.
Carling approaching the final enduro jamming secti...
|By Lon Black|
Mar 16, 2007
Might want to bring two extra runners for a couple #3 placements before the layback section. Nice line.
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
A 70m rope gets you to the ground. 60m will not. Use the seam, it makes it easier. Fun climb. If you are looking for shade, this is the place.
|By Jonas Wiklund|
Dec 12, 2007
I second the above comment. This route is longer than the 100 feet stated in Bloom's guidebook. I couldn't reach the ground on my 60 m rope, but my friend who is 40 lb heavier could (just). Unless you have a stretchy 60m and weight in at above 200 lb, use a 70 m line or downclimb a few meter of 5.7 climbing.
Dec 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
word on the street is that there was another accident on this route (lowered off the end of the rope) over thanksgiving. sounds like the dude got pretty jacked up. second time in about 3 months. be careful and pay attention.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2009
Good, easy warmup. Fun climbing with good rests the whole way. Needs a 70m rope.
|By Jon Zucco|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 24, 2012
Cool route, more physical and not so technical. Also, tying knots in the end of the rope is a good habit to get into. Every time. Every route. If you're going to get injured, do it whilst climbing, not lowering.
Oct 13, 2012
I found the first 12 feet through the bulge to be wide-ish hands, #3 camalots for sure, felt this was definitely the crux, after the short lie back section this is dreamy gold camalots, nice long warmup for sure