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At 3225m, the Tofana di Rozes dominates the view around the Falzarego Pass. The huge, steep and expansive south face catches the eye and draws the climber in. The 800m South Face route, a big mountaineering route was the first route up the south face in 1901. The route combines pitches of climbing on solid rock interspersed with long sections of loose rock scrambling.
From the quaint mountain town of Cortina d' Ampezzo, the trailhead for Tofana di Rozes takes only about 25 minutes to reach by car. Drive up the Falzarego Pass road to marker 113.8km and turn right onto the well-signed paved road for Rifugio Dibona. A couple of miles up the paved but potholed road the road turns to dirt at the fork in the road. Go left here towards Rifugio Dibona on the dirt road to the parking area at the Rif. Dibona. The dirt road is passable by passenger car just go easy in a few spots.
Hotels abound in Cortina d'Ampezza and it's a short drive up to the Rif. Dibona from Cortina. Renting a car for your trip is probably the best way to go allowing you early starts for the sure-to-be-crowded classics of the Falzarego Pass area. I suspect taxis and buses can be easily obtained but I don't know for sure.
The area is pretty high in altitude and obviously a great ski destination in winter so late spring, summer and fall are best. The routes on the south face of Tofana di Rozes are obviously sunny and warm and climbing in mid-summer can be hot but not bad. Afternoon storms can and do roll in as the valleys heat up during the day so starting early is a good idea.
The English-translated version of the book “Classic Dolomite Climbs” by Anette Kohler and Norbert Memmel (ISBN 0-89886-693-6) published by The Mountaineers of Seattle, WA, covers the classic multipitch routes of the Tofana di Rozes' south face. I know there are others, perhaps try Chessler Books online.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Tofana di Rozes
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tofana di Rozes:
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete” 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, 14 pitches, 1100'
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 18 pitches, 1400'
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 19 pitches, 1500'
Featured Route For Tofana di Rozes
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Europe : Italy : ... : Tofana di Rozes
This is the harder of the three most classic routes on the South Face buttresses of Tofana. It is a great route, with continuously moderately difficult pitches for the entire bottom ¾ of the route and a couple of very difficult moves. It is a pretty big line in a day if you are not comfortable moving quickly across hard 5.9/easy 5.10 limestone trad climbing and either rapidly free or aid climbing 5.11 roof cracks. If this is your level, this is an absolute classic route to climb and to fill you...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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