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Dark Side Boulders/Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antimatter 
Blowin' the Hatch 
Dark Side of the Moon 
Docking Mechanism 
Docking Port 
Toe to Toe 
Unshaven Slab 

Toe to Toe 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Ryan Silvan/EZ Harrison, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,411
Submitted By: Chip Phillips on Sep 18, 2008

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misha on toe to toe. super sick prob

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Description 

Hike into and through the main area of the Lower Satellites by following the signs to the Third Flatiron. Twenty yards after walking between the A-7 and BBC Boulders, stop and look up to your right off the trail. Fifteen yards off the trail is an undercut boulder above a low-angle slab. Blowin' the Hatch starts low in the middle of the boulder.

Toe to Toe starts under the same overhang as Blowin' the Hatch, but slightly to the right. Begin from a sds on edges under the roof, slide right and out the almost horizontal roof via multiple really sweet slopers and fancy footwork and heel hooks.

For part of the problem you will be above a small, but sharp talus boulder that could do some damage if you back-flopped on it, so bring at least a couple pads and be judicious with their placement.

It was thought to be harder initially, but with the benefit of beta and clean holds, the problem has settled in around V7. Blah blah blah. Have fun fiddling with the slopers!

Protection 

A couple pads.


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By Matt Battaglia
Nov 8, 2008

Yo, what's on for this problem? I started on the two holds under the roof and ended where the chalk ends out right but didn't use 1/2 the chalked up holds. It seemed more like a couple moves into a lip traverse at about V5ish (fun) unless you call certain parts of the lip off. Any tips for doin this one proper? Oh, I broke the right starting hold in 1/2 as I pulled on the problem the 1st time.--Matt
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 8, 2008

Hmmmm ... not sure Matt. Start on obvious holds right from BTH and climb straight out the roof to the right on slopers near/above talus spike. Definitely no lip traversing and most definitely NOT V5.
By Matt Battaglia
Nov 8, 2008

So I'm starting under the big roof on a L. crimp and a R. sidepull/undercling (that I broke) then swing left heel up to huge heel hook and match left hand (V4ish), then slap with left and right (V4ish) to the topout out right (V5ish overall). That doesn't seem like either BTH or TTT but it was fun. I'd like to do the new problem but dont know what's "off". No left lip for full TTT points?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 23, 2009
rating: V4-5 6B+

Chip, I was back in Boulder a little bit ago and got on this and did it the way Matt said as well. Most people go right on toe to to using bomber heel hooks and toe hooks around the left side. What I did instead as I think Matt did was start with a heel and pull on all to the lip next to it that is generally used as a toe hook. I then pull out that way wit right hand to another lip. Switch left hand to a hamhock of sorts and then up to the slopey lip the "toe to toe" finishes. It is certainly the path of least resistance and goes around V4 or 5.
By EZHarrison
Aug 9, 2009

I had looked at this problem the year before, but never gave it any cred. I went up with Danielle one day when she was working on Turning Point. I decided to go and really look at the problem and started cleaning holds. Ryan Silvan came up later that afternoon and I talked him into getting on Toe To Toe. We had both decided that the best line was to go from the left hand block and work under the roof to the sloping lip and up to the top.Here is the link to a vid Ryan took for beta. facebook.com/profile.php?id=50...

Obviously, one could go up the arete, which Ryan and I both did, but the roof was the draw. We both worked out the beta for about three hours or so, lots of moves for such a small problem. We were both pretty cashed by the time we finally figured out the best sequence. We both came back a couple of days later and each of us sent it first try. I think we both decided that without any chalk or seeing any beta, it was sort of cryptic. We thought MAYBE 9er, but with having the beta figured out and the line figured out, it was more like 7ish. Ryan Silvan was the FA and I was the second if anyone cares. Enjoy:)
By misha zavalov
From: Boulder, Co.
Jan 25, 2010

Shame on you Tyson H. for only giving this line 3 stars. Remember how epic it was working on this thing and then finally crushing on it?
By Tyson H
From: Idaho Falls, ID
Jan 29, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

It is a good one, very beta intensive. Contrived, but it's only 5ft tall, so come on. Would recommend it to anyone up for it. Good send, Ryan and EZ.

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