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Toe The Line 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P1: Ron Olsen, Mike Amato, and Bruno Haché, 5/6/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/13/07
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 3,759
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: "Toe The Line," P1 beta photo with bolts indicated...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Toe The Line climbs the striking east arete of Tonnere Tower in two pitches. An aesthetic line, with varied moves and good protection. It is comparable to Bihedral Arete in quality, but has a greater variety of moves.

Follow the east face approach on the Tonnere Tower page. Traverse right on the dirt ledge until you're below the east arete. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor on the ledge. Be careful; this ledge is exposed.

P1: Climb a short dihedral right of a gully to the first bolt, and continue up to the arete. At the second bolt, step left, up, and back right (5.8); going straight up is much harder. Make a delicate step-up move (5.10b) at the third bolt. At the fifth bolt, swing onto the left side of the arete; do not go right. Clip the sixth bolt on the left side of the arete and make an airy high-step move (5.9) back onto the arete. Fun! Make some committing moves (5.9) past the 7th bolt. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left edge of the arete. 5.10b, 95', 9 bolts.

P2: Straight above the belay is the 5.11 headwall of Generous Donation; this is not the route. Instead, angle up right, past three bolts, around the right side of the headwall (5.10a). Climb a slab and make a fun hand traverse right to an exposed arete (5.8). Climb the arete and a steep headwall above (5.9). Continue more easily to the anchor. 5.10a, 85', 11 bolts.

Descent: Rappel 85' down to the anchor atop the first pitch; angle the rappel a little to the left. From here, rappel 95' to the starting ledge.

Alternate descent: Rappel 95' to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tag Team; this is a straighter line down from the top. Then rappel 65' to the start of Tag Team, and scramble back down to the start of Toe The Line.

Location 

The prominent arete on the east face of Tonnere Tower. Route #1 in the ?beta photo?. Follow the Sport Land approach.

Protection 

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Toe The Line Slideshow Add Photo
At the third bolt.  I think going left around the arete here is why the route only felt 5.9+ or so.  Sounds like the .10b crux is straight up past the bolt, but there are great holds around to the left. <br /> <br />Photo by Eva R.
At the third bolt. I think going left around the ...
Hudson and Chauncey on P1.
Hudson and Chauncey on P1.
Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intended to be climbed.
Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intend...
Low on the first pitch.
Low on the first pitch.
Cory, toeing the line.
Cory, toeing the line.
Chauncey on P2. Notice the roof we passed down to her left.
Chauncey on P2. Notice the roof we passed down to ...

Comments on Toe The Line Add Comment
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By Michael Amato
Aug 3, 2007

It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds.
By Bruce Pech
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael.

The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?)
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We stitched the two pitches together to make one, long wonderful sport climb at near 60 meters. It's worth doing only if you don't mind the full weight of the rope at the top as well as have ~20 QDs in your possession.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Oct 4, 2008

I didn't read the description very well and went right onto Tag Team after the 5th bolt on the 1st pitch so I'll have to go back and do it straight up. The crux at the third bolt can be climbed 10a by staying to the right of the bolt, or if you use the holds on the left of the arete I thought it was 5.9. Of all the pitches I've climbed on Tonnere I felt this route was truest to its original grade.
By Dustin Scow
From: Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

By staying on the face and clipping the third bolt and then continuing on the face to the 4th bolt, I felt that this was much harder than a 5.10b. I would rate those two bolts (from 2-3 and 3-4) as a 5.10d and the rest as around a 5.10a/b. Also, I felt that after the arete, when you throw a high right foot and step up, that this was a fairly committed move with slabby feet and not extremely positve hands. A bit of a balancing act for the whole climb.
By D Sharp
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

As of July 2012, right before topping out at the P1 anchors, there is a smallish prominent "tooth" that would be a sweet jug right on the route, except it's loose. It holds a decent-sized boulder in place, otherwise I would've cleaned it off. Chalked it up with an X. If you pull it, it will go right at your belayer. Just be careful.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 3, 2012

Fun fun route! Use both sides of the arete as necessary; not only keeps the route at grade (although it felt way easier than .10b when I on-sighted; my friends disagree), but the airyness while switching back and forth is what makes the climb so fun! Great second pitch - I look forward to leading that next time.